Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a set of carbon vents that I want to put in my front bar.

Have tried removing the original vents but for the life of me I cant work out how to do it. Do I have to remove the front bar odr is it a matter of undoing the nut under the vent and using brute force to pry it out ???

I want to remove the vents either side of number plate and replace with the carbon ones I have..

post-43319-1243591204_thumb.jpg

Any help appreciated.

Hi mate, do you mean the air vent holes just under the grill in the front of the bumper? If so, your bar looks like a Fiber glass aftermarket one with the vents solid to the actual bar so you can't remove them unless you saw them out physically. I know that only the Series 3 GTR's had external vents that were removable.

Yeah the ones above the intercooler mesh and either side of the number plate if that makes sense.

They are'nt a solid one piece as have lip and can get them to move a little. Mate at HKS said just undo bolt underneath the vent and they should come out but they dont budge!!

Dont know if they are glued in...

Got something like this ready to go in

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=18012&js=n

Yeah the ones above the intercooler mesh and either side of the number plate if that makes sense.

They are'nt a solid one piece as have lip and can get them to move a little. Mate at HKS said just undo bolt underneath the vent and they should come out but they dont budge!!

Dont know if they are glued in...

Got something like this ready to go in

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=18012&js=n

Yeah, I know exactly what you wanted to achieve...but in my opinion, unless you also get a CF lip for your GTR bar, it will look awkward just having CF air vents in the middle of your bar. Up to you though.

Ok, so if you are definitely sure they're removable - doesn't look like it from the picture, nevertheless, get a flathead screw driver and slide it just underneath the bottom of each air vent...then gently flick it up - with your other hand, push the airvent downwards as it has a metal clip that keeps these vents (if they are in fact removable) in place. Be sure to do it very slowly or you can ruin the clip and the capsule that it goes into.

A mate of mine has a genuine GTR bar and we did this together. Have a go, if you're still stuck, I suggest you take the whole bar off and do it from the inside. Let me know how you go and if you still need help.

Cheers,

SM

Cheers bloke I'll have a go later today.

I'm off to the track with the HKS boys tonight for HKS Hiper Racing Day tomorrow so if get stuck hopefully can get them to have a go.

I've got a Carbon Bonnet coming from East Bear in the next week or so and looking at getting carbon lip, want to see how it all looks first.

Thanks again!!

Edited by elrodeo666

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...