Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And I'm not joking about Melb being sunny because it's absolutely glorious weather here! So we decided to take a trip and while doing so I wanted to see how far I can stretch on a full tank of juice. Having consistently achieving about 500-550kms in city driving, I was very curious of how much better economy on the freeway. Well the car travelled to Albury, about 600kms and it drank 65 litres so on a full tank based on being 80L i think, I could have achieved about 740kms. Which is pretty darn good.

So how does everyone do on the freeway?

Oh I forgot to mention that not everything have been smooth sailing. Firsty I got pelted with gravel and hence scored 2 cracks on the windscreen, but the worst one was my right front plastic overfender flew off somewhere between Goulburn and Gundagai so if anyone happens to drive through and see it, say hello to it!

Yep, Ian is right again.

Jetwreck lost one on his way to Phillip Island. They are not cheap either.

Last time I did the drive of Canberra to Sydney I think it worked out at 9.8km / Litre.

They can be alright on the open road if you don't get into them too hard.

We got to Melb on Thursday. I checked the events section but no meets which is ashame.

oh damn. go to the Victoria section. then events.

was a big kebab cruise last night. about 25-30 cars at the meet point.

but the worst one was my right front plastic overfender flew off somewhere between Goulburn and Gundagai so if anyone happens to drive through and see it, say hello to it!

that's the second one in that part of the road.....$370 from memory!!!!!

that's the second one in that part of the road.....$370 from memory!!!!!

You forgot the Nissan dealer moto, "prepare to get bent over"

Dare I ask why they keep falling off?! Are they bolted or screwed in or just those little plastic fastners that seem to hold most of the car together? lol

my tripcomputer thingmee says I'mgoing to get 440km's around town or something, does seem thirsty!

I'm confused by the whole km's per litre thing so i'm doing my own recording on an iphone app and I'll be able to work out the exact mileage I'm getting so I can see if there's something wrong (o2 sensor or anything)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...