Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have a stockish r33, the cost for maintenance is more than you think when you think about it... tyres, service ever 5000km which is roughly every couple of months for me, any problems that come up, it all adds up every little thing.. next thing you know your working saturday to pay for it all LOL

oh and speeding fines :down:

I reckon you can, but can you really?

I mean you ask can you afford one, but can you afford not to have one?

If you answered yes or no to your own question, then you must ask yourself "what was the answer?"

Yes or No?

No or Yes?

man i think just keep looking its haed to sell cars now so ull find one for a good price ... i think paying 12k for a r32 is wayy to much im sure u can get a good 1 for 8k ... i sold my 96 r33 with some mods and low k;s for 12.500 and it was very good cond .. so to pay that for a 89 not a really good deall ..i think wait a littl more and get a gtst r32 for round 8k ..dw about full insurace i didnt get it :P

man i think just keep looking its haed to sell cars now so ull find one for a good price ... i think paying 12k for a r32 is wayy to much im sure u can get a good 1 for 8k ... i sold my 96 r33 with some mods and low k;s for 12.500 and it was very good cond .. so to pay that for a 89 not a really good deall ..i think wait a littl more and get a gtst r32 for round 8k ..dw about full insurace i didnt get it :thumbsup:

Lol?

You can get one for 8k... but it will be Bunky, need Lots of TLC/Money to get it going good/nice

Even 32's Built for Drifting/track racing and have nothing in them start around 10k.... Unless of course its broken etc etc :laugh:

its ok to be able to save up for one but realistic minimum costs are

10 to 12k for car

800 for a set of tyres a year minimum

600 per year in rego

160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy

100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y

120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself

so generally its gunna cost you about 350 bux / forgnight just for general running. if anything goes wrong that will go up very quickly

Edited by Pal

600 a year for rego???

If he's only doing 5-10'000kms per year, running costs are alot lower, ie; fuel, servicing, tyres

Insurance will probably only need to be 3rd party+fire+theft as well.

In my experience, Insuarance costs is more to do with age than the vehicle...I was quoted $2'500 P/A for my 94 Maxima, and the same again for a 95 Infiniti Q45 I was real close to buying. My Maxima is faster than my Ceffy but doesnt fall under the "high performance" criteria, so I guess its just insurance companies not trusting young males.

Spend atleast $10'000 on base car.

Easier to sleep at night knowing it's all good.

Edited by Nic_A31
I now have $10.3k all up to spend so Im gonna start looking for one I like and hopefully I'll have one in the next couple of months

if i were u, i would wait until i have around 15k or more before i start searching for 1. That way, u would have enough change to fix any minor issues of the car that u have just bought + maintainence fees etc. U wouldn't want to scratch ur head and start looking for more money and see ur car sitting there in the garage for the next 6 months or so because something broke and u couldn't afford to fix it.

my2cents

Only buy one if you dont mind living off every pay check..

If your scraping every single penny you have at the moment please take in mind that you will have rego, stamp duty, maintenance etc etc.

In all honesty you should save a bit more and have at least an extra 2-3k just incase.

Edited by sushiboi

mm yeah you can get a good one for round 8 - 9 k .. i hav two friends that spent round that much on then and they hav had no probs ...( im not saying buy the 1st one you see wait for a good r32 to come round ) both my mates got a good deal 1 was stokish and the other had a bit more mods and they both in ok condition ..... i no i would neva pay 12k for a r32 (but6 thats just me evry1 is difrent) ...

If you want no probs get urself a r33 i think .... good luck with it anyways mate skylines r killah carss :thumbsup:

its ok to be able to save up for one but realistic minimum costs are

10 to 12k for car

800 for a set of tyres a year minimum

600 per year in rego

160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy

100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y

120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself

so generally its gunna cost you about 350 bux / forgnight just for general running. if anything goes wrong that will go up very quickly

This is what my r33 costs me in regards to maintaince... upgrades is ontop of all of this. =)

10 to 12k for car Bought for 15k in 2007.

800 for a set of tyres a year minimum Paid 1000 for 4 new tyres + alignment in nov 2007, it is now June 2009 and ive still got great tread on them, so i doubt he will need 800 per yr as long as your not doing burn outs everywhere.

600 per year in rego $232 per 6 months.. so thats $464 for the year

160 bux a fortnight fuel if you take it easy I pay approx $45 dollars a week on BP Ultimate. Travel the odd ~250kms a week. (sometimes more sometimes less)

100 bux a fortnight on insurance or 2500/y $1450 for full yr insurance or $550 for third party + fire and theft

120 to 150 per service per 5000ks or 3 months if you do it yourself $108 for royal purple oil, $8 for ryco filter (For basic 5k service). Every few serivices i will also do rear diff oil - Castrol - $20 bucks.

As for major servicing it cost me the following (For parts only, labour was done by me unless otherwise stated):

Full engine and radiator coolant flush, replaced with Tech 100 - $70 bucks for 10 litres

Bled and replaced brake fluid with DOT4 Castrol - $20 for 2 bottles

Bled and replaced power steering fluid - $20

Bled and replaced gearbox fluid Redline Super light - $120

Bled and replace clutch fluid - $20

Changed Spark plugs with NGK irridums - $80

Changed Clutch with exedy cushion button - $585 + $600 for installion + servicing of gearbox (included changing all gaskets)

100 000km service - 900 (for parts and labour)

Cleaning ACC with carby cleaner - $10

NGK 02 sensor - $75

Thats all i can think of atm in regards to basic servicing you will need to do with most r32/r33's

Hope it helps.

Edited by br3ndan

all this budgeting is great - and very useful, i have a similar one set up in an excel spreadsheet..

one thing is being over looked i think - and that is the "if shit really gets f**ked up"

for example if u stack it and need to come up with $2k for the insurance excess,

if your waterpump goes and smashes into your radiator (happened to me in november 08)

etc etc..

basically the back up cash you need just in case something happens..

i always make sure i have around $2k sitting in an account that i can easily get to and withdraw in case the worst possible situation happens at the worst possible time - murphies law

just something to think about..

You guys all make owning a skyline sound expensive and crazy.

I Got...

R33 - 15k

Insurance - $800 per year / $250 excess (Shannon's)

If you need repairs, ask Dad for a loan, get a second job or sell it.

Simple, by it, insure it (comprehensive) and drive it.

Do it mate, your only young once.

Blinky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...