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LOL Damo!!

Writeoff, Who did your guards? I'm putting the stock wheels back on for now... I'll have to wait till I get my guards rolled so need some numbers and prices and experiances people :laugh:.

M&C Doyles do some awsome gaurd work.

Prices vary depending on what you want done.

Tell mike I sent you down!

nice brake concept.....but what sort of engine is it running, a Briggs & Stratton??! :)

Probably needs the snail just to make the speed limit past schools, lol

Apparently its a Harley motor with a cylinder lopped off and a centrifugal supercharger put in its place.

Can u pick that the headlight is off a Volkswagen beetle?

  • 3 weeks later...

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34604

Hyundai.jpg

wait for it.....

Engine: V6 VN, t70 Turbo, T5 5speed Manual

Exhaust: Full 3"

Suspension: VN commodore front struts, Brakes Etc, 4 Link rear shorten VN Diff

with 9psi of boost i make 225kw at the wheels but 560nm of torque

enginecar.jpg

DSCF2884.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

thank christ that thread is done. just read 31 pages on and off over the last 10 hours or so. i did not achieve my uni work getting done...

amazing stuff, still think the charged white and black ferrari about 20 pages back is my favourite. thanks for all the awesome tho, its been fun.

now to stay on topic with this post:

AwesomeThread.jpg

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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