Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

do u have a aftermarket fuel pump tho? and what is R&R?

R&R is rich & retard. As I understand it once the ECU detects a condition that is very lean it puts itself in a mode that ups the richness of the mixture and retards ignition timing back to a point so it does not damage the engine.

I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump but my injector duty was very high as well so not sure if it is the fuel pump or injectors that were limiting factor. I wouldn't risk taking it for more than a test drive, if you can at least lower the boost to its minimum. The 2530 delivers quite a bit more air than the standard unit.

Edited by Kwyjibo

fuel pump wont really help. the standard injectors and pump are pretty evenly matched. ie the injectors can't outflow the pump. UNLESS the pump is failing and not flowing it's rated capacity.

just fit the turbo, then get it tuned straight way. best way to go. :P

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean

if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean

if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned

Injectors were on very high duty and the standard non-wideband o2 sensor was pretty much stuck to lean under any sort of load above about 7psi. It also started misfiring badly by 10psi boost. You may be right about it not running lean but either way I'd prefer to be safe than sorry.

If you have any other ideas why it would be misfiring that would be great, I know coils occasionally have problems but mine was running 1 bar on standard turbo with no problems previously. I got flamed on here about how I'm going to kill my engine last time I asked on here whether there is a way to tell if misfire is caused by lack of spark or something else even after telling people it was just a test and that I know it will run crap until it gets tuned(hence why its off the road and only out occasionally for testing).

A mate had a 2530 on a HR-31 redtop with better wiring to fuel pump, and no other mods apart from the usual cooler, EBC and exhaust and ran 1 bar for umm about 8 months before it went pear shaped and when the motor was stripped down was found to be a scored bore :ermm:

Before he fixed his fuel pump wiring up it ran like a dog though. IMO I'd still do the supporting mods for peace of mind.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...