Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

do u have a aftermarket fuel pump tho? and what is R&R?

R&R is rich & retard. As I understand it once the ECU detects a condition that is very lean it puts itself in a mode that ups the richness of the mixture and retards ignition timing back to a point so it does not damage the engine.

I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump but my injector duty was very high as well so not sure if it is the fuel pump or injectors that were limiting factor. I wouldn't risk taking it for more than a test drive, if you can at least lower the boost to its minimum. The 2530 delivers quite a bit more air than the standard unit.

Edited by Kwyjibo

fuel pump wont really help. the standard injectors and pump are pretty evenly matched. ie the injectors can't outflow the pump. UNLESS the pump is failing and not flowing it's rated capacity.

just fit the turbo, then get it tuned straight way. best way to go. :P

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean

if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean

if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned

Injectors were on very high duty and the standard non-wideband o2 sensor was pretty much stuck to lean under any sort of load above about 7psi. It also started misfiring badly by 10psi boost. You may be right about it not running lean but either way I'd prefer to be safe than sorry.

If you have any other ideas why it would be misfiring that would be great, I know coils occasionally have problems but mine was running 1 bar on standard turbo with no problems previously. I got flamed on here about how I'm going to kill my engine last time I asked on here whether there is a way to tell if misfire is caused by lack of spark or something else even after telling people it was just a test and that I know it will run crap until it gets tuned(hence why its off the road and only out occasionally for testing).

A mate had a 2530 on a HR-31 redtop with better wiring to fuel pump, and no other mods apart from the usual cooler, EBC and exhaust and ran 1 bar for umm about 8 months before it went pear shaped and when the motor was stripped down was found to be a scored bore :ermm:

Before he fixed his fuel pump wiring up it ran like a dog though. IMO I'd still do the supporting mods for peace of mind.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...