Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1994 R33 GTST (white)

Exterior:

-GTR front bumper

-GTR wing

-17" black racing pro n1 rims F8" R9"

with new tyres F235 / R255

(2500$ new) 22/7/03

-KYB shock up+RSR lowed springs

Interior:

alarm system

jvc single cd

performance:

Top secret ecu

ARC intercooler

3"stainless exhaust system

sard bov

hks pod air filter

racing clutch

dyno run 167kw@6500rpm AVOturboworld

rego 26/4/04

90,000km

Price: $20,000

reason for sale collects $ for s15,gtr,gdb,dc5

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27249-r33gtst-black-racing-gtr-kit/
Share on other sites

very very nice car..

grrrrrr i was about to as u where u were located den saw "melbourne". It seems like the ones which im interested in are not in sydney....just my luck..guess i have to be patient and keep looking

anwyayz good luck with the sale and a freee bump

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...