Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You obviously have never been in a properly set up Supra for circuit racing.

I was being rather sarcastic.....have seen some mad supras on tracks

Hey Krishy, I will take some shots for ya while your in action!!

Thanks for that martin.....looking forward to it woot woot

  • Replies 383
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You obviously have never been in a properly set up Supra for circuit racing.

Hey George, are you taking your Supra to this? Have you finished all the mods (turbo, manifolds etc) on your car now?

Looks like my car will be stuck in RWD with no ABS so I'll be the guy facing the wrong way each corner and having everyone take evasive action around me.

The new G sensor which my car needs costs about $3000. F**ken GTRs! :thumbsup:

Looks like my car will be stuck in RWD with no ABS so I'll be the guy facing the wrong way each corner and having everyone take evasive action around me.

The new G sensor which my car needs costs about $3000. F**ken GTRs! :thumbsup:

jeez man buy one from a wrecker... screw a new one

-D

Gtr's run as a RWD anyway unless ur under full load. The GTR behaves like a rear wheel drive car and is very tail happy as we found out with mine and a certain V8 500 driver last week at Mallala. So you have to be correcting yourself the Attessa can only do so much and we were drifting and correcting nearly every corner and you can feel the correction with the application of front wheel drive but it still has no effect when your pushing the car beyojnd its limits and you still have to rely on your own driver skill to negotiate the turns.

yeah but he's got a fwd daily :P no chance lolz

i have no abs either, shell be right steady foot works best :P

^^ and its not quite full load or 100% rwd, watch the dial when you put ur foot down, itll go to about 10% fw torque. theres usually something going to the front but in the end 32s still feel pretty much like a rwd on most bends

Edited by Inline 6

Picked up the car from Manta yesterday and despite the G sensor indicate red and failing the diagnostic test it now has 4WD & ABS :huh:

Funnily enough when we put it on the dyno today at HiTech it didn't want to come out of 4WD despite the fuse being pulled and the Field torque split controller being unplugged. The new BlitZ EBC and oil lines to the GReddy catch can will hopefully be sorted on Thursday and I think I'll fit the Recaro race seat for the day. Fingers crossed all goes well.

Now I'm just debating whether to buy a helmet before the 25th? I know it's not mandatory but with my driving history and luck...

Now I'm just debating whether to buy a helmet before the 25th? I know it's not mandatory but with my driving history and luck...

as the course is set up as an introduction to track days, we won't be going flat out 100% to maintain safety and also to minimise the cost to the drivers (recognising that not everyone wants to invest in a helmet if they haven't decided on whether they're going to do regular trackdays yet) but it's up to you if you want to bring one along on the day.

so I'm not familiar with how much the wear and tear will be on my car so heres what ive done.

-new tread all round

-new coolant

-mobile 2000 10W-40 oil and filter change

Do i need to have new brakes? if so whats good brakes? no green or red stuff ideas tho(too expensive) just chuck me good brand an what id have to pay for 2 pairs. i got some dot4 factory line racing brake fluid for when i put new pads in.

anything else i may need?

I'd keep your tyre pressure's at at least 30 psi, if its a cold day or raining you wont get enought heat in your tyres and you'll just slide around or roll the tyres of the rims. Take a tyre pressure guage with you and when you start to push the car hard for a few laps then check the pressure, try to keep it about 30-36psi. I doubt you guys will see much of a pressure increase as this couse is only a beginer thing and you wont have helmets so i doubt you'll be able to push your cars very hard.

actually, the instructors recommend that you start with 42-45psi with street tires to stiffen the side walls for cornering - this is Item 1 of your pre-trackday checklist that is part of the course receipt that Dean from John Bowe Driving has emailed ALL of you going.

this also prevents the tire rolling on the rim with hard cornering, but i suspect that many of you have stretched profile tires anyway :)

i would start with minimum 38psi cold (17"-18" street tires) before you leave home as it will probably rise to 40+ by the time you reach Mallala. it is better to have over inflated tires rather than under inflated as you can always let excess pressure out there (unless you have a portable compressor or pump with you). and dstroy is right - your tire temps won't increase a lot if it is a cold/wet day.

for semi slicks, you would start with 28-30psi cold as these can increase to 34-36psi when hot (after hard cornering, acceleration and braking). you would adjust the pressure for these tires in between laps based on the tire wear across the tread face (need edge to edge wear).

Edited by V35-2005

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...