Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people I have not posted on here for a long time but damn SDU is pretty dead these days and the oldskool section is fully dead except for me and stagefumer lol.

My question is with the S13 style front end into R30 I know its been done a million times but recently my mate(who knows what hes doing and builds custom/modifyed cars for a living) said he measured up for another guy and rekons that it is not ideal at all like all wrong angles etc etc but knowing that its been done before makes me wonder what the hell hes on about! And I have some S14 5 stud/4 pot front hubs and S13 struts which I will put new aftermarket inserts in, weld on adjustable sleeves and put on adjustable camber tops. What I want to know is what have peolpe here used for bottom arms and caster rods on a HR30's?? and has anyone experienced anything bad? or is there a thread on here about this allready? I have dummyed them up onto my standard arms as showen in the pic bellow but it does not look right lol! and theres a couple of other pics of my turbo(MP T61 650HP), wastegate(46mm DSR), intercooler(600x300x100), engine bay seem welding/strengthening & other stuff aswell if anyones interested.

S14R301-1.jpg

turbgatebov001.jpg

Picstosort004.jpg

Heapsapixs017.jpg

Mycarwith18x95meisteronit.jpg

looks like a sweet project man.

as 4 the s13 stuff i put in my dr pretty much just bolted in (coilovers). used stocko caster rods and control arms. all i did was machine out the camber tops cos u have 2 mount them backwards (if using s13 stuff. can just get r30 ones) and then get stuff all - camber adjustment. drifted it at mallala and had no problems and came up fine when got a wheel alignment.

think stock s13 struts come up bit short but if gonna make em adjustable shouldnt have a problem man..

Good luck with the build mate looks like it will be a very cool car!

i want to do this to my DR30 Coupe so ill keep an eye on this

i cant help you on this, but i do have a dr30 sedan in NZ with rear brake cables and etc if you still want them? pm me!

Cheers Marc

i used s13 hubs and coilovers with all other suspension items standard r30 bits.

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

^That being said can those mounts on the bottom control arms be swapped? Remove Dr30 put in S13 no machining ?

Thanks for your help

Edited by FJ20DR30

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

isnt just down to the steering linkage angle.. There are some s13 tirerod ends (aftermarket) that flip the atachment point to the top of the linkage arm.. Eliminating bump steer

Haha wish those rims were mine but the are not unfortunatly there off my mates 180SX 18x9.5 Work Meisters but I will get something similar when shes nearly driving, FJ20DR30 thanks will PM you in a min, for a start I will just get the front 5 stud so I can get some nice wheels on there and because I have a shitload of 4 stud skid/drift wheels so gota use them up first then will do the back as thats way easyer to do as theres like 3 ways ya can do it and I have to get a expencive double caliper mount made for 2pot GTS25T calipers for the hydrolic hand brake and subaru leone front calipers for foot brake and cable parking handbrake, and yea bumbsteer is only to do with steering arm angle and what stagefumer said is what I will be doing anyway but I will be using a S13/A31/C33 steering rack most likley because the R30 steering box is a shocker and as for it being low well that is one of my biggest aims is to have it as low as its still able to be driven properly. Anyone got any pics of there setups ?

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

thats exactly what i did.

the guys that do the wheel alignment didnt mention anything about geometry to me.

The car drives fine and steers fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

did you have to modify the s13 coilovers to fit or did they go straight in. if modifying is needed is it able to be performed by anyone with a few tool skills.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...