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im looking into doing the handleing side of my 260....

are the isc n1 coilovers any good? link here http://www.isc-warehouse.com/index.php?mai...4e89f1bc1f66d9c

camber arms... are they the s14 ones ( the same that fits rs4 models) is this what i want?

toe arms... is this the same at the rs4 ones?

and sway bars? ive heard mixed things... mostly good? is it really worth it?

(i have a rear strut brace also)

cheers.

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im looking into doing the handleing side of my 260....

are the isc n1 coilovers any good? link here http://www.isc-warehouse.com/index.php?mai...4e89f1bc1f66d9c

camber arms... are they the s14 ones ( the same that fits rs4 models) is this what i want?

toe arms... is this the same at the rs4 ones?

and sway bars? ive heard mixed things... mostly good? is it really worth it?

(i have a rear strut brace also)

cheers.

Ive heard good reports about the ISC one's, i will go these if i keep mine excellent service from them to.

The rear cambers arms are the same as S14 yes, there is no point getting rear toe arms, get a hicas cancellor as this will kill 2 birds with one stone, get rid of the hicas and give u toe control. Get some castor rods for sure, keep in mind you need R33/34 one's, then will need to put the studs from the stock stagea one's into the adjustable ones as the studs they come with are to short.

Sway bars are worth it for sure, specially for a lard arse stagea.

My 2c.

leave bars for now unless you can get 30mm + solid. but check stock first.

I would NOT be touching ISC coilovers, especially not on a 260RS.

Bilsteins if on the cheap, or pay ~ 3300-3400 for some DMS 50mm adjustable. They are aus made/designed and used in Tarmac and Gravel Rally cars.

Do some searching in the suspension thread on me, niskid and gsl rallysport

30mm solid?

why do you suggest such a large increase?

a solid 22mm vs hollow 22mm (i presume this is on a 260RS) is about a 70% increase.

pretty sure i have 27/24, and its WEAK.... I am pretty sure GTR's run fat bars, and stag is longer IIRC, with 150kg more

i have a 24mm solid rear and barring serious track work it seems to be on (or around) the money for the street with Billies and standard RS4S springs.

i'd be surprised if you have 27/24 (unless the screwy whiteline nomenclature is the reason, from memory there was a 27 in the specs but it was a 22mm bar).

if you do have 27/24 and it isn't enough then i don't want to arm wrestle you. :bunny:

(quick edit: rear bar was 24mm not 22mm)

Edited by wolverine
i have a 22mm solid rear and barring serious track work it seems to be on (or around) the money for the street with Billies and standard RS4S springs.

i'd be surprised if you have 27/24 (unless the screwy whiteline nomenclature is the reason, from memory there was a 27 in the specs but it was a 22mm bar).

if you do have 27/24 and it isn't enough then i don't want to arm wrestle you. :)

Haha, i have girly arms, IT will do that to ya :bunny:

I am just used to driving a stripped out stiff datto still(even over a year i have been without it)

I think my custom springs will be the shit if i end up keeping the car, sort out the way the weight shifts mid corner

If you can't afford highquality "coilovers" don't get cheap ones. Get Bilsteins - they work great on my S1 for road and track and i don't seem to need to adjust them every other day. i would guess only serious circuit racers need fully adjustable suspension.

Everyones going to have their own views but I reckon the following is a pretty good setup.

Eibach springs 8kg front and 6kg rear. This will cost you around $600 I would say now with the exchange rates being what it is, but seriously worth the money Eibachs are the best springs around. You could also maybe get some Lovells but i have no direct experience with them.

Shocks get good ones!!!!! The car will handle better and they will last it is a waste of time lowering a car on crap shocks and expecting it to handle well. Bilsteins, Koni, KYB actually do some good ones too. The majority of japanese cars use KYB shocks from the factory so they are well proven. I would budget around $1500 for shocks.

Fit a set of Whiteline rear subframe alignment bushes, this firms the rear up a bit (Some might find it a bit hard for the road as it removes any give in the rear subframe but it is great for fast launches)

Install a rear strut brace, this makes the car feel heaps stiffer through the rear end and for the price i reckon it is one of the best handling mods you can do get a greddy or cusco one say around $200.

Leave the rollbars until you have done all of this and then see if it is still an issue. I have a Stag Type S so it has the same suspension setup as a 260 and I have done all of the above only I use a set of custom Greddy Coilovers with eibach springs as I like having the adjustable damping and height adjustment. I am still running the standard rollbars and I reckon my car handles pretty well and I can't see any need to change anymore at this stage.

Hope that helps you

Everyones going to have their own views but I reckon the following is a pretty good setup.

Eibach springs 8kg front and 6kg rear. This will cost you around $600 I would say now with the exchange rates being what it is, but seriously worth the money Eibachs are the best springs around. You could also maybe get some Lovells but i have no direct experience with them.

Shocks get good ones!!!!! The car will handle better and they will last it is a waste of time lowering a car on crap shocks and expecting it to handle well. Bilsteins, Koni, KYB actually do some good ones too. The majority of japanese cars use KYB shocks from the factory so they are well proven. I would budget around $1500 for shocks.

Fit a set of Whiteline rear subframe alignment bushes, this firms the rear up a bit (Some might find it a bit hard for the road as it removes any give in the rear subframe but it is great for fast launches)

Install a rear strut brace, this makes the car feel heaps stiffer through the rear end and for the price i reckon it is one of the best handling mods you can do get a greddy or cusco one say around $200.

Leave the rollbars until you have done all of this and then see if it is still an issue. I have a Stag Type S so it has the same suspension setup as a 260 and I have done all of the above only I use a set of custom Greddy Coilovers with eibach springs as I like having the adjustable damping and height adjustment. I am still running the standard rollbars and I reckon my car handles pretty well and I can't see any need to change anymore at this stage.

Hope that helps you

bilsteins ~1300 fitted.

koni yellows prob a little cheaper.

pass on the KYBS

brown springs in thomastown, 130 per pair, so 260 per car for custom length/rate springs.

1500 awesome coilovers=custom springs and bilsteins

i spoke to a dude at car tourque here in adelaide. he said hes got sum bilstines to suit the rear for 292 each. without springs. would i use the stock ones or does some one have an eibach part number?

for the fronts would i just get matching pair? he seemed to think they were the same as a gtr up front? is this true? cheers.

ive decided to ill do with a set of bilstines... they have clips apparently to lower it slightly...

ill go with these and my stock springs for now.

isc s14 camber arms rear

hicas lock bar... this will apparnetly remove the need for a toe arm? is this correct? what one do i need?

white line bush kit is looking like an idea possably down the track but im still unsure if its worth it... how can i tell if mine are shagged? the person at the shop i went to today for rotors had a whiteline kit that like squishes into the stock bush (polyutherane bits for either side) r33 r34 ones r what im after

she spoke about a ben whitten? or sumthing from here in adelaide thats getting rear adjustable whiteline staibliser bars made up for the 260's...

how are we sounding now? :down:

ive decided to ill do with a set of bilstines... they have clips apparently to lower it slightly...

ill go with these and my stock springs for now.

isc s14 camber arms rear

hicas lock bar... this will apparnetly remove the need for a toe arm? is this correct? what one do i need?

white line bush kit is looking like an idea possably down the track but im still unsure if its worth it... how can i tell if mine are shagged? the person at the shop i went to today for rotors had a whiteline kit that like squishes into the stock bush (polyutherane bits for either side) r33 r34 ones r what im after

she spoke about a ben whitten? or sumthing from here in adelaide thats getting rear adjustable whiteline staibliser bars made up for the 260's...

how are we sounding now? :down:

Some bilsteins will let u lower it slightly via a circlip groove on the bottom spring platform yes.

Get a R33/34 HICAS lock bar, there the same, and with the steering arms that the HICAS actuates on this will change ur toe.

The whiteline kit that sqaushes in is the one people are talking about, should be some rings or known as "pineapple's".

Just out of curiosity Adam, what are the shocks and springs that you have in the car now and does it handle like a boat or you just want to improve it? My car actually handles a lot better than my 32 GTR did although it does have non-adjustable Nismo coil-overs... not sure how good they are though? Would be interested in seeing how well it handles after you set it up.

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