Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hehe cheers man, yeah went on Tuesday. Thought it would be a good chance to test out the 5D2. Prob go back again at some point with my macro lens and tripod + flash.. I used my 70-200 2.8 IS and 400 f/5.6L all day.

Sidd, you are obsessed with the harbour lol

I got so bored yesterday when i went.. It will be last set of night time shots.. Im so over it!!

Im gonna start getting into glamour/model shoots.. Just saving up ab it of money on lighting equipment :whistling:

Those city shots will probably be my last set for a long long time..

anyone here own pocketwizards? I want one..

I don't have them, but i'm keen to get some. I don't know exactly what I need though. I have the ST-E2 at the moment which I use to fire flash from above my fish tanks. I have used it on some car shots though.

Fark that is a cheap solution Xmetal, thanks for the heads up man!!! Did you get yours from the same people on ebay or??

I bought mine from my local camera shop here in newy however they are made by the same people as the ones on eBay, on a full charge they'll have an average range of 30m, beware though, they are prone to electrical interference so they have this nasty habit of triggering the flash at random. :D

I bought mine from my local camera shop here in newy however they are made by the same people as the ones on eBay, on a full charge they'll have an average range of 30m, beware though, they are prone to electrical interference so they have this nasty habit of triggering the flash at random. :D

If your after alternative triggers, try cybersyncs from alien bee (unsure if they ship to aus as they seem to only sent there strobes to the US, check alien bees website), otherwise i recommend cactus triggers, there great, but as expected sometimes they don't fire multiple flashes and the build quality is a little bit flimsy,but then again you get what you pay for and they work for me 99% of the time. www.gadgetinfinity.com Get the V4's as they are the newest ones.

Also for all you canon Nutta's i HIGHLY recommend you head over to http://photography-on-the.net/forums There is a vast amount of information on how to's as well as you can post anything photography related or show your photo's or ask for help on how to process/print something and your bound to get an answer, great bunch of people!

Edited by FST513
Fark that is a cheap solution Xmetal, thanks for the heads up man!!! Did you get yours from the same people on ebay or??

Yea i have the pt04s for a while now.. they give me the shits.. so slow and i hate it!!

but yea its cheap and does the job.. But frustrating at times!! Esp when doing it outdoors..

I want pocketwizards to also fire my strobes etc..

If your after alternative triggers, try cybersyncs from alien bee (unsure if they ship to aus as they seem to only sent there strobes to the US, check alien bees website), otherwise i recommend cactus triggers, there great, but as expected sometimes they don't fire multiple flashes and the build quality is a little bit flimsy,but then again you get what you pay for and they work for me 99% of the time. www.gadgetinfinity.com Get the V4's as they are the newest ones.

Also for all you canon Nutta's i HIGHLY recommend you head over to http://photography-on-the.net/forums There is a vast amount of information on how to's as well as you can post anything photography related or show your photo's or ask for help on how to process/print something and your bound to get an answer, great bunch of people!

Im considering purchasing some alien bee strobes.. Thinking like the B800s..

Still gotta do a fair bit more research on exactly what i need to setup a small studio.. But i sorta got an idea of what i want!!

Just cant go any further as i still need to save up money.. so expensive all these things lol

I remember that B&H had some "impact" lighting kits, which consisted of 2 umbrellas i think and i can't remember what else for around $100 US, might be worth looking at? Yeah, check if AB ship to australia, because as far as i know, they only ship to the states which is sad because they got some awesome gear e.g. AB800's!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...