Jump to content
SAU Community

Pod Filter

Jack-

By Jack-,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jack- Proficient

Jack-

Posted
Posted

Do I need to install an air flow meter with my pod filter on my N/A or just take the air box off and whack on a pod filter? Some people say it doesn't really matter, others I've asked said yes definately put an AFM on, what do you guys reckon and what are you running?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/
Share on other sites
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Yes you do.

The AFM (air flow meter) measures how much air flows into the intake, sends that to the ECU which then adds fuel accordingly. Without it the car won't function correctly.

Unbolt the air box, bolt on a pod filter adapter to the AFM (unless you're using an Apexi pod designed to connect to the factory AFM), and then slide on the pod and tighten the strapping.

As you're in Melbourne, I believe the law says that it must be secured and enclosed. So the next step will be to use a bracket to secure the pod to a factory bolt (universal aftermarket item will do, or piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it), and then either fabricate a air box or buy an off-the-shelf one.

A pod without shielding it from engine bay heat, particularly in an N/A will show neglible gain in performance, if anything lower performance. After all that, running a cold air feed into the box will help get the most benefit out of a pod filter.

In short, unless you want the induction sound and looks of a pod, keep the stock air box and run a high flow panel filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4642079
Share on other sites
Benzino33 Experienced

Benzino33

Posted
Posted
Yes you do.

The AFM (air flow meter) measures how much air flows into the intake, sends that to the ECU which then adds fuel accordingly. Without it the car won't function correctly.

Unbolt the air box, bolt on a pod filter adapter to the AFM (unless you're using an Apexi pod designed to connect to the factory AFM), and then slide on the pod and tighten the strapping.

As you're in Melbourne, I believe the law says that it must be secured and enclosed. So the next step will be to use a bracket to secure the pod to a factory bolt (universal aftermarket item will do, or piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it), and then either fabricate a air box or buy an off-the-shelf one.

A pod without shielding it from engine bay heat, particularly in an N/A will show neglible gain in performance, if anything lower performance. After all that, running a cold air feed into the box will help get the most benefit out of a pod filter.

In short, unless you want the induction sound and looks of a pod, keep the stock air box and run a high flow panel filter.

+1 get an AFM

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4642100
Share on other sites
butch Collaborator

butch

Posted
Posted

pods arnt necessary . your looking for fine filtration . which can be found in a high flow panel filter. disreguard the pod filter mod and go with the panel filter . will work alot better and not suck in heat and engine grime - G

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4642163
Share on other sites
ONE-VIA Collaborator

ONE-VIA

Posted
Posted
Unless your going to have a heatshield & cold air intake a pod will be useless..Id say go with a K&N air filter..cant go wrong with them.

k&n is shit house

3A ftmfw beter and like 1/4 of the price

theres a few engine management units that alow you to run no afm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4644385
Share on other sites
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
Unless your going to have a heatshield & cold air intake a pod will be useless..Id say go with a K&N air filter..cant go wrong with them.

as said above, u can go very wrong with some K&n stuff.... they are an oil based filter, meaning that the real tiny nitty gritty stuff gets trapped in the filter by the red oil (that gives it its colour). This oil can-not always- cause headaches when trying to tune the car and it is screwing with the afm as the car is sucking in oily air to try to get the right ratio to mix with fuel... this can happen when u clean them and u reapply the oil and u put too much on, or even from just chuking one on from new.....so imo, better to go for a dry pod...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4644502
Share on other sites
ONE-VIA Collaborator

ONE-VIA

Posted
Posted (edited)
theres a few engine management units that alow you to run no afm

MAP Sensor alows you to run no afm

A MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor is a micromechanical sensor that measures the absolute pressure in the intake manifold and compares it with a reference vacuum, not with the ambient pressure. This enables the air mass to be precisely defined.

The measuring element is at the heart of the micromechanical pressure sensor. It is comprised of a silicon chip in which a thin diaphragm has been etched micromechanically. Four deformation resistors are diffused on the diaphragm. Their electrical resistance changes when mechanical force is applied. The measuring element is surrounded on the component side by a cap which, at the same time encloses the reference vacuum. They are extremely robust and insensitive to aggressive media such as oils, fuels, brake fluids, saline fog and industrial climate. The pressure sensor case can also incorporate an integral temperature sensor, whose signals can be evaluated independently. This means that at any point a single sensor case suffices to measure temperature and pressure.

Edited by ONE-VIA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4648966
Share on other sites
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
all this anti-K&N is stupid. You only have problems if you over oil your filter like a ding dong. I had one for over 2 years and not a problem. Me and many others.

you know, first time I did it, gave it the lightest spray of oil after cleaning it, put it on the car after letting it dry for about an hour, no dripping, no worries... leave it overnight, go check in the morning... All this crappy red oil sitting under it... so i take it off.. clean it again and spray even lighter... same process, no oil the next morn underneath it...thought great! It STILL caused problems with idle/tuning.... took it off and put a drift pod on... no issues... but i know not everyone has these problems and it started after putting the boost up on my car, but when it was n/a there were no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4649962
Share on other sites
central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

Give or take 1% there is actually no difference but if you want to go buy tests the most recent was autosallon and 3A won 1st in performance and 2nd in filtration

k&n got 1st in filtration and 4th in performance and i have an Apexi and it got 6th for both but its a slight difference that i cant even be bothered to change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273649-pod-filter/#findComment-4651806
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...