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Do I need to install an air flow meter with my pod filter on my N/A or just take the air box off and whack on a pod filter? Some people say it doesn't really matter, others I've asked said yes definately put an AFM on, what do you guys reckon and what are you running?

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Yes you do.

The AFM (air flow meter) measures how much air flows into the intake, sends that to the ECU which then adds fuel accordingly. Without it the car won't function correctly.

Unbolt the air box, bolt on a pod filter adapter to the AFM (unless you're using an Apexi pod designed to connect to the factory AFM), and then slide on the pod and tighten the strapping.

As you're in Melbourne, I believe the law says that it must be secured and enclosed. So the next step will be to use a bracket to secure the pod to a factory bolt (universal aftermarket item will do, or piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it), and then either fabricate a air box or buy an off-the-shelf one.

A pod without shielding it from engine bay heat, particularly in an N/A will show neglible gain in performance, if anything lower performance. After all that, running a cold air feed into the box will help get the most benefit out of a pod filter.

In short, unless you want the induction sound and looks of a pod, keep the stock air box and run a high flow panel filter.

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Yes you do.

The AFM (air flow meter) measures how much air flows into the intake, sends that to the ECU which then adds fuel accordingly. Without it the car won't function correctly.

Unbolt the air box, bolt on a pod filter adapter to the AFM (unless you're using an Apexi pod designed to connect to the factory AFM), and then slide on the pod and tighten the strapping.

As you're in Melbourne, I believe the law says that it must be secured and enclosed. So the next step will be to use a bracket to secure the pod to a factory bolt (universal aftermarket item will do, or piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it), and then either fabricate a air box or buy an off-the-shelf one.

A pod without shielding it from engine bay heat, particularly in an N/A will show neglible gain in performance, if anything lower performance. After all that, running a cold air feed into the box will help get the most benefit out of a pod filter.

In short, unless you want the induction sound and looks of a pod, keep the stock air box and run a high flow panel filter.

+1 get an AFM

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pods arnt necessary . your looking for fine filtration . which can be found in a high flow panel filter. disreguard the pod filter mod and go with the panel filter . will work alot better and not suck in heat and engine grime - G

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Unless your going to have a heatshield & cold air intake a pod will be useless..Id say go with a K&N air filter..cant go wrong with them.

k&n is shit house

3A ftmfw beter and like 1/4 of the price

theres a few engine management units that alow you to run no afm

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Unless your going to have a heatshield & cold air intake a pod will be useless..Id say go with a K&N air filter..cant go wrong with them.

as said above, u can go very wrong with some K&n stuff.... they are an oil based filter, meaning that the real tiny nitty gritty stuff gets trapped in the filter by the red oil (that gives it its colour). This oil can-not always- cause headaches when trying to tune the car and it is screwing with the afm as the car is sucking in oily air to try to get the right ratio to mix with fuel... this can happen when u clean them and u reapply the oil and u put too much on, or even from just chuking one on from new.....so imo, better to go for a dry pod...

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theres a few engine management units that alow you to run no afm

MAP Sensor alows you to run no afm

A MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor is a micromechanical sensor that measures the absolute pressure in the intake manifold and compares it with a reference vacuum, not with the ambient pressure. This enables the air mass to be precisely defined.

The measuring element is at the heart of the micromechanical pressure sensor. It is comprised of a silicon chip in which a thin diaphragm has been etched micromechanically. Four deformation resistors are diffused on the diaphragm. Their electrical resistance changes when mechanical force is applied. The measuring element is surrounded on the component side by a cap which, at the same time encloses the reference vacuum. They are extremely robust and insensitive to aggressive media such as oils, fuels, brake fluids, saline fog and industrial climate. The pressure sensor case can also incorporate an integral temperature sensor, whose signals can be evaluated independently. This means that at any point a single sensor case suffices to measure temperature and pressure.

Edited by ONE-VIA
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all this anti-K&N is stupid. You only have problems if you over oil your filter like a ding dong. I had one for over 2 years and not a problem. Me and many others.

you know, first time I did it, gave it the lightest spray of oil after cleaning it, put it on the car after letting it dry for about an hour, no dripping, no worries... leave it overnight, go check in the morning... All this crappy red oil sitting under it... so i take it off.. clean it again and spray even lighter... same process, no oil the next morn underneath it...thought great! It STILL caused problems with idle/tuning.... took it off and put a drift pod on... no issues... but i know not everyone has these problems and it started after putting the boost up on my car, but when it was n/a there were no problems.

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Give or take 1% there is actually no difference but if you want to go buy tests the most recent was autosallon and 3A won 1st in performance and 2nd in filtration

k&n got 1st in filtration and 4th in performance and i have an Apexi and it got 6th for both but its a slight difference that i cant even be bothered to change.

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