Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hi im new to this forum and am looking at buying my first skyline and was woundering what is the better way to go the 95 gts-t or the 98 gt-t? and why?and whats the difference between them?

Hi. I went thorugh this decision about 7 months ago. I came really close to buying a gts-t, but ended up going for a 98 gt-t instead. Here's my decision process:

  • I personally think the R34 is a better looking car
  • More refined feel compared to the R33
  • 206kw Neo engine versus 187kw S2 motor. Torque is also up ~50nm. Very responsive and plenty of torque down low.
  • Slightly newer car, hence less likely to experience problems
  • Price difference, i thought i would fork out the extra $6k for the 34
  • Revised interior
  • Less of them on the road, R33s are becoming way too common for my liking

It's going to come down to gut instinct. When you find the right car, you will know. I looked at around 6 cars and knew straight away that the 34 I have now was for me. What ever you do, don't buy the first car you look at. Take your time to drive other cars, see how they differ.

7 months later and i still love the thing to bits. I look forward to driving it everyday.

Best of luck my friend

Edited by lukebaldan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4644707
Share on other sites

I've driven both my 1995 R33 GTS-T manual and my friend's 1999 R34 GT-T manual. There is a noticeable difference in feel between them. However, not a huge difference in performance. I recommend driving them both to compare for yourself, as we are all different in what we want from a car.

For me, I prefer the R33 interior. It just feels roomier and I much prefer the dash layout. Also, the velour seats are a ton better than the cheap shit cloth in the R34. I hate R34 seats - I also hate 350Z seats and any other Nissan seats where the legs appear to be outlined in the cushion.

Performance wise I felt they were on par...the R34 feels smoother / more refined in its power delivery, but both cars are pretty well even in terms of actual speed / acceleration. The power difference means buggerall when the R34 weighs about 50kg more. I also dislike variable valve timing in an engine so the R34 lost points with me there.

What it's going to come down to more than anything is looks, and how much you want to spend. The R34 is a great looking car; probably better than the R33 in my opinion. But I couldn't justify the extra $6,000 (or whatever the price difference is nowadays) when I still find the R33 attractive. Put it this way: my friend paid circa $21,000 for his R34 about 2 years ago, with 100,000km on the clock. I paid nearly half that for my R33 with even less mileage. And my friends, having been in both cars, actually prefer my car.

Edited by Birds
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4644914
Share on other sites

thanks birds I can pick up a r33 for $11990 veilside body kit, GTR grille, fibreglass vented bonnet, custom boot pods, shaved boot, ganador mirrors, 18" shaddow chrome Kaotik rims, hybrid front mount intercooler, blitz BOV, Apexi boost controller, air flow converter, NISMO carbon fiber gear knob, Momo steering wheel, GTR

seats and door trims, K&N pod filter

and the r34 for $10500 Coil over suspension, front mount intercooler, aftermarket alloys exhaust and mags

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4644940
Share on other sites

thanks birds I can pick up a r33 for $11990 veilside body kit, GTR grille, fibreglass vented bonnet, custom boot pods, shaved boot, ganador mirrors, 18" shaddow chrome Kaotik rims, hybrid front mount intercooler, blitz BOV, Apexi boost controller, air flow converter, NISMO carbon fiber gear knob, Momo steering wheel, GTR

seats and door trims, K&N pod filter

and the r34 for $10500 Coil over suspension, front mount intercooler, aftermarket alloys exhaust and mags

Interesting...

I still probably go for the R34, the R33 sounds all riced out with all that bodykit and Blitz BOV junk (The R33 Veilside bodykit only looks good on the R33 GTR) but you stated it has a FMIC and boost controller... Is it pumping a big amount of kW's?

What I am saying is the R33 better have a decent power out put, otherwise the car is all show and no go...

I'd go the R34 GTT already 206kW factory + everything you listed on there sounds good.

All for a cheaper price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4644995
Share on other sites

Interesting...

I still probably go for the R34, the R33 sounds all riced out with all that bodykit and Blitz BOV junk (The R33 Veilside bodykit only looks good on the R33 GTR) but you stated it has a FMIC and boost controller... Is it pumping a big amount of kW's?

What I am saying is the R33 better have a decent power out put, otherwise the car is all show and no go...

I'd go the R34 GTT already 206kW factory + everything you listed on there sounds good.

All for a cheaper price.

thanks for ya thought thats 2 for the gt-t

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4645262
Share on other sites

thanks birds I can pick up a r33 for $11990 veilside body kit, GTR grille, fibreglass vented bonnet, custom boot pods, shaved boot, ganador mirrors, 18" shaddow chrome Kaotik rims, hybrid front mount intercooler, blitz BOV, Apexi boost controller, air flow converter, NISMO carbon fiber gear knob, Momo steering wheel, GTR

seats and door trims, K&N pod filter

and the r34 for $10500 Coil over suspension, front mount intercooler, aftermarket alloys exhaust and mags

Choices choices - the R33 there sounds like ass and the R34 sounds dodge.

Personally, in that price bracket I'd be looking for a really nice clean R33 Series 2(1996 to 1998 shape). In a REALISTIC price range of an R34 GTT I wouldnt waste my money on one and would look at picking up an R33 GTR(if I were to modify) or pick up an R32 GTR(if I were to keep it fairly standard and just enjoy it as is).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4646166
Share on other sites

Owned both and in my opinion if you're planning on modifying it to a decent level(computer/turbo/etc) then your decision will all come down to the looks and the quality of cars you inspect.

If you're not going to modify it to that level then definitely go an R34.

Cheers.

Edit: Veilside is teh ghey and that R34($10500) has got to be dodge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273863-gt-t-or-gts-t/#findComment-4646170
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...