Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi y'all

My Stagea developed a auto trans problem today during my lunch break.

When I start up the car (or turn ignition on) the A/T light flashes 16 times. I'm now driving the car stuck in 3rd gear all the time (limp mode?). Going tiptronic and changing manually does nothing. Anyone able to identify what is wrong ... not guess what is wrong?

I had MV Automatics in Blackwood service the box and put in a shift kit some 10,000kms ago and the whole car is only 61,000kms old. Never had any problems ... been flawless.

A loose wire perhaps? I'll give MV Auto a call when I have a moment. But any help in the meantime would be great. Especially from those who had the problem before and found a solution that worked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273910-uh-oh-stag-trans-problem/
Share on other sites

Hi Roo,

Would same something rude like pull the mesh and see if it goes away but jokes aside Im 99% sure this is what adams car did when one of his G box solenoids shat itself on his old s2 and went into limp mode.

Sit tight for 5 and ill have a hunt and try and contact him aswell.

Any idea of the cost for Adam to fix?

I'd like not to believe its the solenoids. Everything I read, the box plays up a bit now and again before the solenoids fail. But my box has never played up. This happened out of the blue ... no warning. Is why I'm thinking, maybe I have a trans leak and fluid is low (one can only hope). Or a loose connector/wire.

Roo,

Run the Auto Trans diagnostic found here :

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a140164-

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a140165-

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a140166-

Im guessing its a shift solinoid thats shagged itself.

This could be some useful reading.

Adams had no signs of it playing up then it blew the shift solinoid B out of the blue. Car would only drive in 2 and 3.

He was given a price to fix it and service as pan has to be pulled ect and the option of a shift kit. He went down the shift kit path and the fix including shift kit was around 500/600.

Mike at MV will have it sussed very quickly as he told adam the solinoids that are shagged are very easy to spot.

Any idea of the cost for Adam to fix?

I'd like not to believe its the solenoids. Everything I read, the box plays up a bit now and again before the solenoids fail. But my box has never played up. This happened out of the blue ... no warning. Is why I'm thinking, maybe I have a trans leak and fluid is low (one can only hope). Or a loose connector/wire.

fluid low ? shift kit installed ? = a shit load of heat going through the box.

stress from the shift kit, as well as low liquid. top it up see how it goes.

same thing happened to me, solenoids were getting to hot and were just letting you know there is a cooling problem in the box.

Get the leak fixed asap, might just be a gasket (service is $130)

i was quoted $560 for new Solenoids, but also got quoted $1800 for Stage 2 rebuild including aftermarket solenoids..... guess which one i chose :(

good luck man

P.S if MV only opened it up 10,000 ago, i'd be asking them to check out the leak. maybe gasket wasn't on right ? or didn't seal good

doesn't really sound like what you've described though

No. I agree. I have 3rd only (not even 2nd) ... gearbox is young and I had a service/shift kit done last year.

fluid low ? shift kit installed ? = a shit load of heat going through the box.

street from the shift kit, as well as low liquid. top it up see how it goes.

same thing happened to me, solenoids were getting to hot and were just letting you know there is a cooling problem in the box.

Get the leak fixed asap, might just be a gasket (service is $130)

i was quoted $560 for new Solenoids, but also got quoted $1800 for Stage 2 rebuild including aftermarket solenoids..... guess which one i chose :(

good luck man

P.S if MV only opened it up 10,000 ago, i'd be asking them to check out the leak. maybe gasket wasn't on right ? or didn't seal good

I'll limp the car home tonight (only 20 min drive) and check the fluid level out. I really think thats what it is.

If not, then its off to MVs for a diagnosis.

Get the leak fixed asap, might just be a gasket (service is $130)

Far out 130 for a service is alot cheaper than any prices I've been quoted!

P.S if MV only opened it up 10,000 ago, i'd be asking them to check out the leak. maybe gasket wasn't on right ? or didn't seal good

Adam said when I was on the phone to him they dont touch the solenoids on the Shiftkit service.

Roo if I were you I would check the fluid before you drive home. What time do you finish mate? Im working at Mt Barker and prob have a L or 2 of transmaxZ sitting at home in the shed in burnside if your really stuck....

Just got off the phone to MV Auto (finally got thru) and they couldn't tell me much over the phone ... not even a quote on the replacement solenoids. They want me to get the Stagea to them, but I'm flat out this week. I know more on what I'm going to do, when I get home.

Glad this happened now, not when I was in Kadina over the weekend.

Just spoke to adam again now that he was free (he was with the thread doctor before)....

He says run the Diagnostic I put up. It will tell you whats going on. If the fluid is low and its at to higher temp it will tell you that aswell.

Adam said he ran the diagnostic found out it was shift solinoid b from diagnostic. Called mike; told him what he got from diagnostic and sure enough when they pulled it apart nit was shift solinoid B.

servo might have trans fluid for a top up....

other wise, see TJ's post for my thoughts.

Sounds like the tiptronic boxes are piss weak, if you arent planning on going manual, maybe put the box from your S1 if you are willing to part out the car, and try and set up the tiptronic on it.

Sounds like the tiptronic boxes are piss weak, if you arent planning on going manual, maybe put the box from your S1 if you are willing to part out the car, and try and set up the tiptronic on it.

in stock form i think so, but a full built s2 gearbox is good for a shitload of power, and abuse :bunny:

mine is only Stage 2 with a 500hp rating.

servo might have trans fluid for a top up....

Sounds like the tiptronic boxes are piss weak, if you arent planning on going manual, maybe put the box from your S1 if you are willing to part out the car, and try and set up the tiptronic on it.

Yeah they do carry atelast one brand on dex III ATF.

wouldnt bother with the transmision swap with the s1 just speed up the manny conversion :bunny:

roo, the diagnostic sounds a bit random but once u get it, it will tell u exactly what the go is. my car spent like 2 weeks of the rd coz all these other places couldnt tell what the go it.

mine did the same thing. im pretty sure i had 2nd and 3rd i may have remembered wrong tho...

all i did was drop a little blow off parked... n that was it. what kinda driving was going on b4 it went?

if i were u id run the diagnostic 1st so u can tell him it said it was....X... this way he knows u no ur shit and not gna pay him to do it. they just re wire the solinoide and off u go. i was very happy with MV's. :)

was gonna say, it's a sign ruby :P

Yeah ... shopping for a gtr box now :P

all i did was drop a little blow off parked... n that was it. what kinda driving was going on b4 it went?

if i were u id run the diagnostic 1st so u can tell him it said it was....X... this way he knows u no ur shit and not gna pay him to do it. they just re wire the solinoide and off u go. i was very happy with MV's. :D

I've driven it hard-ish sometimes, but I'm still on 7psi boost until I can tune it (its a time thing, more than a money issue), so its not copping abuse. Leading up to the failure, I was cruising to work in peak traffic. The car is home now for the rest of the week.

Silver stagea is going to a new owner tonight (so no chance of nicking the box) and I'm picking up a new toy too. :)

A quickie:

I'm carrying out my manual conversion earlier than planned, so haven't quite done my homework.

Does a GTR manual box or GTS4 box bolt straight into the Stagea? No mods to tailshaft or mounts?

I'm aware of the other things required, like: drill out plate for shift stick, change over pedal box, need clutch kit, change over center console, change over handbrake etc. But are the boxes the same length and all?

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...