Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ezy03, sorry cant PM you as I do not have enough posts, but to answer your questions,my car is a premium pack without leather, was already in stock so no in transit discount. I had a trade, so haggling was involved. After agreeing to a T/I price which was the same as everyone else was offering, i made the sale conditional upon them fitting a leather / suede interior from another car in stock ,which they agreed to do. Took my car to my mechanic today to get it checked over while on warranty ( 3mths/5000k MTA warranty), it looks new underneath as it does on top.

It is common for dealers to have more than one yard, Japlink is a tiny yard, and they sometimes trade separately, the warehouse is massive. I have no hesitation in recommending them to you based on the grin I have driving my car,but do the usual checks on the vehicle, same as if you were buying a commodore or falcon Hope this helps

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
anyone have any further feedback on japlink? Have a deposit on on of their cars atm.

i just recently brought mine from allimports. they let you test the cars for any thing which is good. i got a proper MTA inspection before i brought mine, car in very good order. but....

they are also called HCN nsw pty ltd... thats on my invoice but the car was listed on Allimports.com

they have two locations one dealer and one warehouse.

the boss is little sly... goes back on his words. DONT fully trust him..

make sure he puts everything on paper....

i.e

he promised two keys with the car... so far i only managed to get one.... but will be chasing it down, he said he couldnt find it.... bit of BS

also he nearly gave me the cheaper version of the warranty he promised 3k for majors (he tried to put the 1.7k one on paper... caught him out and pointed to him to change before i sign it....

but overall quite happy with the car so far but becareful when dealing with the dealer...

he has quite a few v35s in the warehouse..

Just don't try to get an alarm installed there, lol.

LOL, i payed like 1200 for the one with the windows option and the ridicilously low sounding siren and that was like 6 years ago... i bought a zx and 33 of e but that was back in the day when sami was there, so i cant really comment on their current rep

draw of luck. some lucky ones get a car with all 3 keys from japan, some rather unlucky may only end up with 2, some very unlucky, only 1...

i got 2, both are the FOB key remotes... some ppl only got 1 FOB key, one valet key.

draw of luck. some lucky ones get a car with all 3 keys from japan, some rather unlucky may only end up with 2, some very unlucky, only 1...

i got 2, both are the FOB key remotes... some ppl only got 1 FOB key, one valet key.

then where should i get my key cut?

i want a another proper key not just a valet?

he he, not that simple.

V35 keys have inbuilt immobiliser. simply any key off a Bunnings shelf can't be used to start your car even if it's cut properly.

you need to have new keys cut, then brought into Nissan dealer for 'programming'. so it has to be a key that can be programmed.

you need the 4-digit immobiliser key that comes on a little metal tag usually attached to the valet key. if you don't have this 4 digit immobiliser,

then tough luck.

I gotta hunt mine from Japan too. probably one day if I am on a trip to Japan, I might have to visit a local japanese Nissan dealer

and try my luck trying to obtain it... I don't have the valet key with the metal tag.

there is a whole long thread about immobiliser on v35 on this forum

do you mean you leave your original keys at home and bring a cut/copied key around?

or do you mean you press the button on your aftermarket alarm to lock/unlock and don't use original keys but you still carry them around?

if it's the first one then yeah that might work, if you remove all factory immobilisers and replace it with mongoose.

if it's the second one, then it's probably the car still detects the original key nearby because it's a transponder type thing in the original key that needs to be within certain range of the car...?

I'm using a standard key (no transponder/FOB housing) with an aftermarket central locking remote and an aftermarket immobiliser tag (installed by Chris Rogers). Without the tag the car doesn't start, but it is an aftermarket one for my installed immobiliser.

Hey Guys,

If you are in Newcastle , or nearby, ring Mark on 0419588000, he can supply a transponder key, with programming and cut to suit your car for $120 total.

The key does not have buttons, you have to put it in your doorlock to get into the car, Or buy a button key from Nissan for about $350 and he can programme it.

He has a code reader that reads the code from your car , so must see the car in person. BTW he is a professional locksmith and for the record ,I have one of his keys for my car

I'm using a standard key (no transponder/FOB housing) with an aftermarket central locking remote and an aftermarket immobiliser tag (installed by Chris Rogers). Without the tag the car doesn't start, but it is an aftermarket one for my installed immobiliser.

well if the factory immobilser is totally removed and replaced with aftermarket one, it is possible.

but still the ECU needs that 4 digit number whenever you need to reprogram it, eg. if you buy an Impul ECU from japan and swapping it...

or if you buy another ECU from Nissan because your current ECU for example, short circuited due to water damage.

so pray that you won't have to replace ECU ever.

I'm pretty sure I have the original tag as well (came with the full suite of original keys including the two factory ones, valet, etc).. I think I remember seeing the 4 digit plate attached somewhere. But you're right, I think the original immobiliser was removed.

These guys are dodgy, dodgy, super dodgy. Beware. Top Motor Import I was told their name is, but HCN P/L is the account name I sent my deposit to.

They list cars on Carpoint, Ebay, Carsales etc as 'private' sales, yet are backyard importers/dealers. I had a deposit on a V35 there last week, and sure enough when I had my mechanic check it out, instead of 27,000km as the odo said, he said it had 80,000-100,000 on it easy. There are hundreds of ways to spot the age of a car.

These guys have been pulling shonkys for years. If you are on ozvr4.com (or can be bothered registering on there) do a search for the the word "BEWARE" and you will see the names of the guys who run the place and around 22 pages of complaints and dodgy dealings.

I was offered a 'full leather' interior for $2k on top of the purchase price and my mechanic said they clearly weren't oem Nissan leather seats as offered, but rather standard seats that had been locally re-covered with pleather of some variety. When I quizzed the car salesman he came clean on it - as he did when I confronted him about the odo being wound back. Shonky as.

But as some people on vr4 said, the prices on the cars are that good, that if you get it checked and is legit, then many people are prepared to take a punt. I for one don't want to support these shonky guys, and would much rather they go out of business and let real businesses who do the right thing prosper, rather than them constantly being undercut.

FYI most of the cars listed by them under multiple private and business names are actually already sold - they just use them as bait to get you to call, then put you onto a different car. At least 8 V35s on carsales are cars they have already sold, but are still listed. You can easily spot them by the fact that all of the photos are taken on a street near their warehouses, which abuts a sports park, and all have the identical angle shots taken.

These guys are dodgy, dodgy, super dodgy. Beware. Top Motor Import I was told their name is, but HCN P/L is the account name I sent my deposit to.

They list cars on Carpoint, Ebay, Carsales etc as 'private' sales, yet are backyard importers/dealers. I had a deposit on a V35 there last week, and sure enough when I had my mechanic check it out, instead of 27,000km as the odo said, he said it had 80,000-100,000 on it easy. There are hundreds of ways to spot the age of a car.

These guys have been pulling shonkys for years. If you are on ozvr4.com (or can be bothered registering on there) do a search for the the word "BEWARE" and you will see the names of the guys who run the place and around 22 pages of complaints and dodgy dealings.

I was offered a 'full leather' interior for $2k on top of the purchase price and my mechanic said they clearly weren't oem Nissan leather seats as offered, but rather standard seats that had been locally re-covered with pleather of some variety. When I quizzed the car salesman he came clean on it - as he did when I confronted him about the odo being wound back. Shonky as.

But as some people on vr4 said, the prices on the cars are that good, that if you get it checked and is legit, then many people are prepared to take a punt. I for one don't want to support these shonky guys, and would much rather they go out of business and let real businesses who do the right thing prosper, rather than them constantly being undercut.

FYI most of the cars listed by them under multiple private and business names are actually already sold - they just use them as bait to get you to call, then put you onto a different car. At least 8 V35s on carsales are cars they have already sold, but are still listed. You can easily spot them by the fact that all of the photos are taken on a street near their warehouses, which abuts a sports park, and all have the identical angle shots taken.

btw.... what colour was the one you looked at?

i got a MTA report on the one i brought... 27thousand ks as well. but the MTA mechanic i hired said it was in pretty good condition.

You can easily spot them by the fact that all of the photos are taken on a street near their warehouses, which abuts a sports park, and all have the identical angle shots taken.

I used to walk my dog past these guys when they were taking some of those photo's. Just an FYI as well i wouldn't hang around that park after dark either... it turns into a beat.... although if you're that way inclined....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...