Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rb30 block

Argo rods

CP pistons 20thou (ceramic coated)

shortpeened crank

ACL bearings

crank collar

Fully blueprinted bottom end

main stud kit

JUN oil pump

N1 water pump

H.E sump

ATI 1000hp balancer

RB25 NEO head

Full recon

full polish/ported and matched to inlet and exhaust manifold

heavy duty valve springs/retainers

tomei GTR poncams 260

tomei cam gears

tomei oil restrictors

headstud kit

greddy plenum

Q45 TB

splitfires

HKS ignition amplifier

6boost manifold

Garrett T04Z (1.00)

Tial 44mm wastegate and screamer

HKS 1000cc injectors

HKS GTR fuel rail

Aeromotive FPR

x2 bosch 044 external fuel pumps plus in tank tomei lift pump

custom surge and catch can

braided over sized fuel lines

custom 3.5 exhaust

Full NOS wet system plus purge kit (Never been used)

custom intercooling pipping

ARE intercooler

greddy radiator

twin thermal fans

motec m600

greddy boost controller

NPC twin plate clutch

custom one piece driveshaft

Full bodykit

custom bonnet

19" rims

LED rear lights

x2 bride seats

x5 defi gauges

Tein coilovers

etc....

Just been rebuilt with new motor doing only 1500km and total of 63000km. Top racing in perth built the car. Nothing else to spare and has the looks and balls to go. Full rego street car. Selling to buy a house. Spent over $60k in engine mods. $50000ono. Any reasonable offer will be considered. PM or email [email protected]

post-27445-1244617027_thumb.jpg

post-27445-1244617050_thumb.jpg

post-27445-1244617070_thumb.jpg

post-27445-1244617098_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274102-1998-r34-gtt-rb2530-manual/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

nah sorry mate just brought myself 34 v-spec 2. Just took the gtt for a run last night as been sitting in garage for over a month. Dam this things mean and crazy.

Edited by drgnball34

daily tune is at 550rwhp..safest tune possible. Its the lowest power it will make even with timing taken out. A bigger wastegate would bring the power lower. Goes to show what it can produce. It's rarely driven if any. Parks in the garage collecting dust. Really ashame and needs to be driven more to do it justice

Edited by drgnball34
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

i know its a long shot, but would you be interested in 25k? obviously i would also have to pay shipping to qld. which i would assume would have to be 2-5k.

if you are interested pm me and we can talk further.

cheers

matty

Edited by mattysaidso

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...