Jump to content
SAU Community

Taping Noise In Engine Around Rocketcover...

Stealthynsa
 Share

Recommended Posts

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi i had a post about removing the head to check but i thought ide ask u what your thoughts are.

just so u know what happened,

some water got under my spark plugs into my engine and when i took out the 4th spark plug the little lip at the bottom was not on it so im guessing it went into the engine.

(not sure if it went in when i took it out or its been like that for a while) but im guessing it just happened cause up intil that happened the car drove fine

when i turn the car on i can hear a noise around the 3rd or 4th piston sounds like its in the rocketcover area or possibly the injectors?

also the car idles fine but when i drive it around the block as soon as i put my foot down i lose basically all power and it sounds like a wrx engine and it struggles hard

(this is with a new spark plug in replace of the faulty 1)

would that noise most likely be the injectors with water stuck in them or do u think water going into where the spark plug sits wouldnt get over to the injectors?

or

would the valves be broken from that spark plug

or

do u think a piston

cause i have an old rb25 engine out the back and i could just switch the parts over cause it sux just having my car sitting there not being able to drive it >.<

Edited by Stealthynsa
Yeedogga Experienced

Yeedogga

Posted
Posted

In all seriousness, as Benzino said, get it TOWED to your mechanic, get him to put a bore-scope in there and see what is going on. It might only be a little piece but it could do alot of damage. Hopefully he can remove it without taking the head off, or it might be too late.

GL man

Yeedogga Experienced

Yeedogga

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dude, relax. There was no offence intended.

You've been given some advice and your question has been answered.

It's fair to expect a bit of stick on forums like this, its all part of the wonderful world of faceless communities :-)

If you don't like it, use spell-check. :D

Edited by Yeedogga
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Stealthynsa - given your other thread about Engine Problems, i really support what the others have said about contacting someone better equipped to investigate the problem.

A forum can only get you so far because its VERY hard to tell with some things over the net and can sometimes lead to you taking twice as long to get it fixed

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Stealthynsa - given your other thread about Engine Problems, i really support what the others have said about contacting someone better equipped to investigate the problem.

A forum can only get you so far because its VERY hard to tell with some things over the net and can sometimes lead to you taking twice as long to get it fixed

yeh i know i dont wanna even try with this problem, ill just have to take it to a mechanic

thanks for ur help neways guys/girls

frozenwaffles Mentor

frozenwaffles

Posted
Posted

i must admit, although i am extreemly tired right now, the rocket thing made me laugh and laugh and laugh...not at the dude who did the spelling miostake, more just the fact that it was quite funny! i do love this forum and the people in it!

Lachlan33 Community Regular

Lachlan33

Posted
Posted

in regards to it sounding like a WRX, thats the sound of a 5 cylinder straight 6. A sound I am all too used to :P

What exactly dropped into the engine? A piece of the old spark plug?

You could try lowering a small magnet into the hole maybe and have that fish the metal bit out for you? Just don't drop the magnet in!

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

so are you saying that the tip of the spark plug is no longer there? if so that is not a good thing at all and as everyone said, get it towed to a mechanic, although considering it is probably already rebuild time you could probably drive it, LOL

weapon6666 Rookie

weapon6666

Posted
Posted

what do you mean water got into your engine?if you have water in your engine dats not a good sighn.....if your car sits for a while is it hard to start with coughing splattering when it starts? or could it be the water cooling on your turbo leaking. with the noise try disconnecting the spark plug and listen for a difference if no reconnect and try the next one and let me know what you have found

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

there are more serious (and common) places water could come from, such as head gasket.

i sort of read this 2 ways. 1 serious, 1 not. feel free to correct any bits i am wrong about (the water bit and the spark plug bit)

not serious: water was surrounding the coil packs and plugs from washing the engine, etc. when you removed the plugs the washer from the base of the spark plug was missing. and now you have a miss fire more than likely caused by moisture trapped in the coil packs that is arcing out. solution would be to pull all the coils out and wipe out around the plugs with a rag or blow the water out with an air compressor and then wipe the coils down and let them sit near (not too close) a heater for a few hours to make sure they are dry then tape them up before you put them back in. the tapping noise is probably just the usual injector noise, a noisey cam or it was the coil pack arcing out, which will make a cracking noise that can sound like tapping.

serious: water was surrounding the spark plugs for some reason. you took the plugs out and number 4 was missing the tip of the plug where the spark arcs to. this will mean it has fallen into the cylinder and made a massive mess of things (have seen what it does to a motorbike), which could even include the turbo. the tapping noise will be the tip rattling round in the cylinder still or possibly be something such as a nick on a valve from where the tip hit it. this is going to result in a rebuild being required (or swapping over your old engine) as the piston is going to look like someone has been hitting it with a nail punch.

basically how serious it is will be determined by what bit of the spark plug you mean by "the little lip at the bottom"

jase-r34 Mentor

jase-r34

Posted
Posted
hey i have a socket set and i have ur normal tools. shifters spanners and screw drivers...

i looked under the rocketcovers and i notice there are allenkey bolts for the head...

can someone tell me what size these are so i can go buy it and

any other tool that i might need in the process of getting the head of the rb25

Was that a typo as well? Lol sorry i couldn't help myself, it's just so funny.

Seriously though how did you get along??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...