Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

correct me if I am wrong but a Dc2 Aus spec ran a 15.1 for the 400. Only the jap spec which made a little more power ran 14.9-15.0. Not too sure what an auto GTST will run the 400 in...Manuals run it in the mid to low 14's....Would be a close one that is if both are 100% stock

The DC2R would pwn it through the hills.

Yes I agree, One thing the Hondas got right was the whole handling and response package. Easily capable of annoying big dollar euro cars through a winding road

Yes I agree, One thing the Hondas got right was the whole handling and response package. Easily capable of annoying big dollar euro cars through a winding road

well the DC2 0 - 100 was recorded at 6.7sec

thats pretty awsome for a Non turbo 4cyl.......

the only problem with them is there is no feeling of torque watsoever...

the constant reving & the comparison of the noise its making per its velocity.......it feels like a worn clutch

And being front wheel drive isnt necessarily in their favour either, is it?

yes

apparently Front engine...Front wheel drive is actually more superior compared to the Front engine rear wheel drive in conditions with snow, mud, gravel and wet tarmac.

well the DC2 0 - 100 was recorded at 6.7sec

thats pretty awsome for a Non turbo 4cyl.......

the only problem with them is there is no feeling of torque watsoever...

the constant reving & the comparison of the noise its making per its velocity.......it feels like a worn clutch

Mmmm...That must be the jap spec times ( 147 kw as opposed to Aus spec 141 kw- Jap spec had better rubber too ) as I am pretty sure most testers in the day achieved 0-100 in 7 and a 400 mtrs in 15.1...But you are right,very respectable numbers for an NA 1.8 front wheel drive

And Gtr's are useless for traction in any of the above conditions too LOL!!!!

and so is the Bugatti VEYRON are also usless for traction in any of the above conditions too LOL!!!!

the Title was talking about an AUTO GTS-T and an Integra Type-R

Im for the r33 simply cos the combo of torque and an auto gearbox is full proof for drag racing while the teg would require careful rev and clutch control for a proper launch.

on another note, fabulous cars though! both of them

I'll depends on the driver, if the driver for the Type-R is skilled in launch & gear changes then Type-R probably tiny bit faster. But if you talking about average day people then auto GTS-T will probably own, as said above auto boxes are easy to do drags with & you get perfect shift everytime.

The gtst for sure, if 33 has a shift kit the gtst by a lot more. When i was running 8 psi and my mate was running 11 psi i used to beat him every time our cars had almost the same mods except i had a shift kitted auto and he had a manual (all tests were performed on private roads...).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. GKTech arms have spherical bearings in them. No bushes. You will not need bushes for those arms. The sphericals are a bit of a maintenance nightmare. I have replaced all of mine several times in the 5 or so years I've had them, and I have the arms out regularly to clean and lube the balls. Worth the pain on an R32, because the standard arm design is trash. If you need the camber adjustment, there are other options (than the GKTech ones), although I would still lean towards and prefer the GKTech ones, even with the maintenance load of the sphericals. The caster adjustment is also highly valuable, allowing for setting the car up to drive straight. There are a million options for these, including the GKTech ones. I've had Tein rods on mine for 20 years and the balls are much less trouble in that location. Never given me a moment's pain. All positives, no negatives. I consider them compulsory.
    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
×
×
  • Create New...