Jump to content
SAU Community

Knock Sensors

wig r31

By wig r31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

cdorhout Newbie

cdorhout

Posted
Posted
did you actually notice any diffrences by mounting them in the higher positions??

I can't say. I moved the knock sensors right away when I built my RB30, so I couldn't compare. Since the stock sensors were right below the deck surface, I wanted to keep them in that same relative location.

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

I think unless you need to re-tap for the 26 sensons you are wasting your time. As you know iron is very dense and has no problems transferring shock through it, especially an inch or so below the standard locations.

My best guess to why they are there would be easability of production but i could be wrong. if you look at the Standard RB30 mounting positions they appear to be exactly the same postion as RB20,25,26 so maybe given that the block is identical excluding final height they just sent it down the line and used the same tapping jig as all the others.

It may be cast there origionally with good intentions because theoretically deck height or (the furthest contacting point at the end of the stroke) would produce the largest forces as it changes direction..

i could wabble on about forces and piston speeds but it's not relevent.

Nissan in short, knows there sh*t :P and if they think the sensor is ok there then it is!!

  • 2 months later...
WHITER33GTS-T Veteran

WHITER33GTS-T

Posted
Posted

I have built up a 26/30 and have heard that there isnt any point in running knock sensors as im running haltech E11. I just want a heads upif I should put them in or not..? I have my old RB25 sensors that fit the 30 block so are they ok to use..?

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted
I have built up a 26/30 and have heard that there isnt any point in running knock sensors as im running haltech E11. I just want a heads upif I should put them in or not..? I have my old RB25 sensors that fit the 30 block so are they ok to use..?

Cheers

Rob, does the Haltech have the facility to use the knock sensors? I'm computer dumb where it comes to tuning. If you can use them, use them for sure. Have you got it up and going yet?

WHITER33GTS-T Veteran

WHITER33GTS-T

Posted
Posted
Rob, does the Haltech have the facility to use the knock sensors? I'm computer dumb where it comes to tuning. If you can use them, use them for sure. Have you got it up and going yet?

Hey Greg,

I have haltech E11v2 and dont think it can run them. Will see the tuner tomorrow and find out.

We fired it up to run the cams in and everything went well.

Hope to get it in to have some bigger cooler pipes made up this week and catch can, then will be off to the rollers for some exercise.

I will let you know how it goes :-)

Mr Jollwah Community Regular

Mr Jollwah

Posted
Posted
The factory ECU will not retard the timing if it sensors detonation. From what I have seen it will switch between high and low octane maps based on knock feedback at low rpm high load. If it changes from high to low and it still continues to detonate there is nothing it will do to stop it. So in a sense they do f**k all.

The factory ecu has a low octane timing map, So the question is how low an octane fuel or how high a cylinder pressure are we talking about. The std ecu does have its limits, Mine used to knock like a salesman everytime I got crap fuel when the local servo ran out of premium.

  • 3 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

In the case of my RB30 block i simply drilled and tapped the blanked upper positions, the tuner will need them to monitor knock levels on the dyno.

I forgot to whilst it was out of the car.

so, this was easier than attempting it in the car.

especially since they have to be dead straight.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...