Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you would be more than lucky if there isnt ceramic dust inside the motor...

But anyway, you cant really tell @ idle. Obviously power/boost wont be the same... thats a given, but then why even attempt that and almost gaurantee a dead motor.

Just pull the dump off

well you have two turbos too worry about. but if it's stock then that seems reasonable. what give you the incline that they were damaged or were you just asking for future reference?

when it happens you will know about it. if you have the cash get some steel wheels put in there or upgrade. my 2c.

Symptoms are: no ability to make boost, and crappy running if you run the motor under the conditions in which it would have made boost. The working turbo will just push air backwards through the broken turbo's compressor, therefore no boost at the plenum. Idle and low throttle are fine as you are in vacuum.

just put some steal wheel turbos on a mates gtr he was on his way to adelaide and was all fine then went to over take a car and no boost, there was no bang clunk or anything just fell off. replaced turbos and checked comp and all good.

so they can let go at anytime you dont need to be giving it a hard time at all. we also never found the wheel thanks to a decat pipe.

From what i have gathered you dont have to be boosting hard thus creating massive heat and spinning the turbos at 1000000rpm for them to let go.

I guess with age, the more shaft play u get, if the exh wheel only scrapes or bites the housing this would be enough to send it flying out the back!?! That's why it's more common with the r32?!?

Its predominately heat, heat generated by shaft speed IMO.

Which is too much boost in the given application in simple terms.

eg. You are probably OK with 13-14psi for usual street duties

Circuit you wouldnt run anymore than 11-12psi... being extended laps is going to get a lot more heat in there

Hence its usually the rear turbo that lets go - hottest cyclinders are 5/6 in a stocker style setup.

Hence its usually the rear turbo that lets go - hottest cyclinders are 5/6 in a stocker style setup.

Why do 5/6 get hotter? Is that why ppl richen up 6? Or does 6 run a little leaner than the others so its just compensating?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...