Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and theyre slightly done up, you get 5 of them straight up that you couldnt afford for quite some time otherwise :)

yeah the UCD is lame like that......still waiting on my 400R. im starting to think it might have to do with which cars you buy?? not sure tho. just an idea...stupid 400R....grrr

Does anybody know whether anything happens if you keep driving the car without doing an engine rebuild or oil change, or does it just get slower? My poor minolta is now on its 4th consecutive Le Mans 24 hr race without so much as an oil change. It's lost about 140bhp and is down about 15-20 km/h on the straights, but still winning easily enough. Might have to give it a birthday after this race to spend some excess cash, and keep it winning.

Has anyone else noticed that towards the end of the 24h Le Mans race the other drivers run out of puff and have to change drivers every lap? For the last hour of the race, 4 of the top drivers were pitting on every lap to change drivers. The TDi Audi managed to sneak into second becasue it was able to go 4 laps between driver changes.

Funny stuff

I noticed that certain cars appear in races after you've bought one for yourself. I bought the Art Mooney (or whatever it's called - Ford Fairlane fans will get it) 1960 Corvette for shits and giggles (fun car to drive and pretty quick). After that it appeared in the Nurburgring 4h and Tsubaka 9h races every time. didn't finish any better than 8th, but still there whereas I hadn't seen it before. Makes a nice change from all those bloody Nissans in the races (I counted 9 Nissans in one of the races)

yeah the UCD is lame like that......still waiting on my 400R. im starting to think it might have to do with which cars you buy?? not sure tho. just an idea...stupid 400R....grrr

I've got a 400R. Prolly coz I wasn't waiting for it :laugh:

Looks good in sonic silver with the dishy LM GT's

Does anybody know whether anything happens if you keep driving the car without doing an engine rebuild or oil change, or does it just get slower? My poor minolta is now on its 4th consecutive Le Mans 24 hr race without so much as an oil change. It's lost about 140bhp and is down about 15-20 km/h on the straights, but still winning easily enough. Might have to give it a birthday after this race to spend some excess cash, and keep it winning

My X1 has over 110,000km on it now, and it's gone from 1557 to a permanent minimum of 1440hp, after oil changes. I once tested the 'no oil change' idea to see how low it would get, and did nearly 12,000 kays- It never goes below 1340.

I've got a 400R. Prolly coz I wasn't waiting for it :laugh:

Looks good in sonic silver with the dishy LM GT's

oh now its just making fun of me.......put me in that exact colour for one of the online B-spec races. straight after i posted my rant....dam you GT...

anyone know what the maximum b-spec level is? all my drivers are level 36, 3 of them 37 in about 20 minutes when i finish the le mans 24hr for about the 20th time. should be one more race after this and i'll be level 40 but does the leveling stop there or can you go higher than 40?

One of my B spec drivers is at 40, yet my overall B spec is still 39. I should have a B spec of 40 after I finish a couple omore Lemans 24h races (20 min to go on the current one). So doing the Nurburgring 24h won't achieve any more XP then?

My own XP is firmly at 30 at the moment, and I can't see it going any higher for a VERY long time. I've finished all the races except the longer enduros and the stupid FGT races. I only do the seasonal events for a bit of variety.

What happened to all the manufacturer races and other races that were available in GT4? Why do none of the races still have any more than 12 drivers? Lemans 24h race with only 12 cars? Yeh, really believable Mr Polyphony.

One of my B spec drivers is at 40, yet my overall B spec is still 39. I should have a B spec of 40 after I finish a couple omore Lemans 24h races (20 min to go on the current one). So doing the Nurburgring 24h won't achieve any more XP then?

your B-spec level will max at 40, but any Bobs in the enduro will keep increasing their level if not already at 40

the seasonal races are good. lots of XP and not bad on the cash vs time equation either.

now, who has a Ferrari F1 car I can borrow for the ferrari challenge? happy to lend my mazda 787B in exchange (it's far too much car for me anyway!!!).

can someone add me to some remote b-spec races? me in desperate of coin only got a measly 2mil at the moment. user name = beerbaron32

thks :) will return the favour of course as I can.

lvl, and winning and loosing is irrelevant from what ive seen, if anything the lowbies get more money and XP just for being amongst the higher lvl drivers. will add you tonight beerbaron.

ive been thinking about buying a Fezza F1 car before the seasonals close...but am unsure if its worth it. anyone know what the prize money is for winning them?? or how hard it is. the Formula GT is the hardest car to drive well (other than the X2010). i guess i just dont wanna buy it just to find out the money is far to little....or realize i cant win in it anyways and totally wasted my money. :(

is the 787B really that hard to drive? how is it compared to the Minolta? love those things...and def going to buy the 787B soon anyways. its the Formula cars i have troubles with atm....esp with 1 buggered wrist.

the seasonal races are good. lots of XP and not bad on the cash vs time equation either.

now, who has a Ferrari F1 car I can borrow for the ferrari challenge? happy to lend my mazda 787B in exchange (it's far too much car for me anyway!!!).

Hey I added you, I've shared my F2007 Ferrari so you can do the Seasonal event :)

Edited by Dani Boi

lvl, and winning and loosing is irrelevant from what ive seen, if anything the lowbies get more money and XP just for being amongst the higher lvl drivers. will add you tonight beerbaron.

ive been thinking about buying a Fezza F1 car before the seasonals close...but am unsure if its worth it. anyone know what the prize money is for winning them?? or how hard it is. the Formula GT is the hardest car to drive well (other than the X2010). i guess i just dont wanna buy it just to find out the money is far to little....or realize i cant win in it anyways and totally wasted my money. :(

is the 787B really that hard to drive? how is it compared to the Minolta? love those things...and def going to buy the 787B soon anyways. its the Formula cars i have troubles with atm....esp with 1 buggered wrist.

my level 20 guy got flogged by your level 30 something guys in a race i hosted yesterday. But the my level 0 guy came in last but only 2 seconds behind the next car. Think there may have been a bit of a crash though.

yeah the AI...and the speed they drive the cars at is strange and random. certain cars that should be fast just arent when a B spec driver is behind the wheel. My Tommy ZZII for example. i can drive it round quite fast, but my B spec driver is useless at it. 666 performance points and it couldnt win the first enduro....lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...