Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Wondering if someone can gimme a hand.

The battery in my car died on Saturday night, stupid me fell victim to leaving headlights on ... oops.

Anyways, grabbed some jumper leads and started it, all good. However, since then I have noticed that it is not achieving 16psi boost which it is programmed for ... it's topping out at about 6psi. I have a Blitz Dual-SBC boost controller.

Anyone have any idea on what could have happened? Could it just be the "Mode" ? If so it's currently sitting on Mode 2 (options of 1,2,3,M of course) so if I change the mode would that make a difference? Never had to play around with one before :thumbsup:

PS: Also, I have the instruction maual/product manual but it really is not that helpful. 12 pages long and nothing useful.

Cheers,

-Chris

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/
Share on other sites

Sorry mate, EBC?

I spoke to X-speed and they reckon that these things cannot reset just by battery losing charge as they store their programming. Not sure about that though, think he was just trying to sell me dyno time. So I am thinking that it could be something like just the mode it's set on at the moment.............

ECU is PowerFC

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657330
Share on other sites

Stuff it, decided to do it the fun way. Took it for a spin around the block and changed the "MODE" on the boost controller and gave it a bit each time, went from 0.6 bar to 1.1bar in the space of 2 settings. Must have just reset to default MODE when the battery died.

Thank f**k for that heh.

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657374
Share on other sites

I spoke to X-speed and they reckon that these things cannot reset just by battery losing charge as they store their programming. Not sure about that though, think he was just trying to sell me dyno time.

How they they be trying to sell you dyno time by telling you the settings cannot just 'reset'.

They are telling you that it has not lost settings, which was what your question right. They couldn't have given a better answer :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657466
Share on other sites

Should have clarified. He told me that the settings will not have reset because the controller keeps it's program onboard, but that I should take it down there and book in some dyno time so they could "check and make sure". When really all the "checking" I needed to do was turn a dial and stick the "go" pedal in a bit.

As for the company, I'd still have no one else but them perform work to my car. Wasn't having a go, was an observation over something trivial :P

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657488
Share on other sites

lol indeed

Should have clarified. He told me that the settings will not have reset because the controller keeps it's program onboard, but that I should take it down there and book in some dyno time so they could "check and make sure". When really all the "checking" I needed to do was turn a dial and stick the "go" pedal in a bit.

As for the company, I'd still have no one else but them perform work to my car. Wasn't having a go, was an observation over something trivial :)

Or... you could have gone down there and they would probably have noticed it was a minor setting once on the dyno and not even charged.

You can't blame a business for proper business practices mate... Diagnosis with sensors, straps, legally etc is the best way.

Often small things like that are quick fixes and often you'll find out of 'good will' you wont get charged or it'll be very minor.. which is fair enough considering it was you who let ya battery go flat afterall :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657536
Share on other sites

Whoa, ease up on the criticism. No need for it. I SAID it was my fault, I don't need you badgering me for it.

I'm just a little dubious because everyone and anyone want to charge people for things these days, everyone has a right to be a little guarded in that regard, I have NO issue whatsoever shelling out the cash for it IF I think it's warranted/necessary. Just for the fact that he said that they don't reset themselves and that he still wanted to dyno it, telling me was $176 an hour (no worries as I said no issue) just seemed a little sus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657564
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...