Jump to content
SAU Community

Air Con Pipes Cooling Intercooler


skins
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm going to get the Air con pipes lengthened and have them snake backwards and forwards (like whats on the back of a fridge) across the front of my intercooler. I was told that the air con pipes get down to 10 degrees. I was also told that it wouldnt put any extra stress on my Air compresssor all i would need would be more gas in the pipework. He went on to say that it would cool the intercooler down very dramatically.

Has anyone thought of this idea or attempted it ? Any suggestions ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much does the air con take out hp wise ? Is there a way that you can work out the hp from the temperature in the air ? (make sense ?) I didnt know it cuts out at high revs. Thanks for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its roughly about 5hp

the problem is cooling the massive amounts of air going thru the cooler. don't get me wrong, id love to see someone try it, but i think it might be a waste of time.

have u thought about those cryO2 sprayers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm just thinking about this out loud a bit here so don't flame me if I say something silly. I'm just going to throw some ideas out there which is always good as it gets people thinking about things I feel (hopefully not thinking of different ways to call me stupid :D )

To start with what intercooler are you talking about doing this to? If it is for a standard cooler then I'd say the first thing to spend money on would be a decent FMIC. And if you are running a pod then make sure it's blocked off from the engine bay and it's being fed air from somewhere other than the engine bay.

Do you want to improve things for the street or the track.

You also need to consider what you are going to gain from the a/c heat exchanger in front of the I/C. You may reduce the temp of the air traveling entering the I/C but depending on how this heat exchanger is designed it will also be adding a flow restriction in front of it. This could reduce the heat transfer properties/efficiency of the I/C and therefore negates a plus the system can possibly produce.

If this is more for the street then you may want to try and stop heat soak more than anything as you're not going to heat the I/C up like you would on a track. The air flow at track speed would keep the I/C fairly cool anyway I'd assume, never driven at the track so I don't have experience with that. To stop heat soak you could possibly add a block of metal to an I/C end tank (or both?) and run a/c piping through those. I think this would draw heat away from the I/C like it would the air flowing through it.

Saying this though, a water spray kit may produce a similar result which would be cheaper to set up. I don't know if it would make much difference but maybe cool the water for a spray kit with an A/C heat exchanger?

You may get more benefit from having a heat exchanger in the inlet piping to cool the actual charge air rather than the air which would travel through the I/C. This would also add a flow restriction though. Maybe you can add a heat exchanger or something into an air box?

I can't recall seeing any research/ figures on any improvements that ceramic coating of intercooler, plenum, turbo, manifold and exhausts etc may produce. I guess these are also aimed at helping keep engine bay/ air temps lower.

You don't always get something for nothing as already mentioned. Your A/C compressor will no doubt need to draw slightly more power. I'm not sure if this is the same case for electric cooling fans or water pumps and you alternator?

If you want to try it though then go for it and good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why not just wrap a few coils around the intake side of the cooler? last year i did a hillclimb and it was so hot i did it with the air con on, you see at the start line up there was a wait so i sat in comfort in my air con car while everyone else was sweating like cops because i know as soon as i take off the air con wouldnt be working because of the cut out at high rpm.

so if you wrap the cooler pipe it will cool it on the wait and keep the temp down a little and when finished your run the air con will come one and start cooling again but i dont know if will make much differnce?

just go a water spray with ice/water/metho :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe not the intercooler but Jim Richards was using this same technique for his fuel. He mentioned there was a considerable amount of power to be made but the advantage was racing with the aircon on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Mr Fry. I'm trying to set my car up for mainly street but also for the occasional race day. I have a FMIC (from memory which is terrible at the moment) it's a PWR but don't qoute me. I was just curious to see if using the A/C would give substantial increase because of cooler air. From what people have been saying the gain would far out way the cost. So it looks like i'll be looking for other options to cool it down. I haven't changed the pod setup as yet but I will be very shortly as it seems to be the way to go. Where would I go to get a water sprayer kit ?

Thanks heaps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want real gains that is street frendly, then look up mafia's water methanol setup. You will see 30rwkw gain, if tuned correctly, and can fill the 4litre resevoir up for about $4. Unfortunately the air con setup will never work.

Think about the internal volume of the car about 50 cubic feet. It takes a few minutes to cool that volume of air down 15deg. A turbo at full noise will pump out 600 cubic feet air per minute. The air con going flat out with perfect heat transfer will drop the intake temps by about .2deg.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

mate i wouldnt bother doing this, instead theres a tutorial on putting water sprayers directed onto your intercooler, and instead of using your air-con suction line pipes for cooling just put ice blocks in your water spray reservoir

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi mate, I have never had an issue with the odometer in mine (450,000+ klm now) and can't remember another post about it. Still, your description of the likely cause sounds spot on, so an electrics repair is probably the next stop.
    • Cheers. I more want it quieter with the varex open. I only have the varex closed when i start up and roll out the driveway to keep everyone happy on days i take the car to work at 5 AM or come home late. So just a mod muffler will do tge trick? Something like that would require a retune hey?
    • I was going to say generally speaking if it's like 80k+ miles since the valve cover has been replaced you don't even attempt to just replace the gasket. The valve cover itself will likely be warped and it will continue to leak after replacement, just not as severely. The valve cover PCV diaphragm can also tear and create a major vacuum leak. Welcome to BMW life. My friend's 2006 330i was t-boned and totaled out so he also just got a 335i so I can add to this thread now.
    • Hi all, For my '98 260rs... The odometer LCD occasionally turns blank or gives me only the bottom half or top half of the numbers. It's intermittent, which leaves me to believe it's a dead solder or loose wire somewhere. The odometer itself works. When the screen comes back, kms have been added to the trip and overall meters. A couple questions: Is this a known issue with the Stagea? I didn't see it pop up in my quick search, but that could be my searching skills. How accessible is the LCD screen in the cluster? I'm hoping it's a remove and replace type situation versus cracking open the whole housing. I'm hoping you all can narrow some of my initial troubleshooting. Any experience or opinions would be helpful.  
    • Yeah. Seeing the finish line must be quite the motivation. Good on you for sticking with it. Understood about the model choice. Also, totally get the challenge with sourcing parts. Based on your handle, I'm just a few hours south of you. All the little things I've bought so far come with $30 shipping, even if it's just stickers for the boot!
×
×
  • Create New...