Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls

im pulling down my r33 gtst s1 manual and wanna get rid of as much of the stuff in my garage.

standard catback exhaust with cat...$70

3-3.5" catback exhaust with cat...$150

standard airbox with no snorkel...$50

standard smic...$50

pretty much the whole interior, standard seats, steering wheel, door inserts ect ect.

let me know what you want of it and ill see what i can do.

pm me with questions or offers, more pics too come.

located south east melbourne

cheers

Gezza

post-45569-1245317967_thumb.jpg

post-45569-1245317998_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275331-random-r33-gtst-parts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate,

You have gauge holder for the dash and gauges?

Yay my first post since i joined... heheheheh

hey mate, congrats on your first post and joining up :P .

wasnt exactly sure if you ment the actual instrument cluster or extra gauges and such, i cant pm you yet but give me a call sometime and ill c what i can do to help.

my number is 0433971544 btw guys, send a txt through and ill call you back asap.

cheers

Gezza

Edited by alwaysdreaming
airbag or non airbag steering wheel?

hey Musky, non airbag steering wheel.

as for the cat bloodsword, its a redback cat i have no idea if its any good it just came with it when i got it.

yeah i could seperate it, send me a txt and ill send you through a picture or two.

my number is 0433971544 for anyone wanting to get in contact with me.

cheers

Gezza

hey guys i also have a series 2 spoiler with brake light in black.....$100

i really wanna get rid of my main interior parts aswell, like rear seats, front seats ect, throw me some offers.

give me a call or txt on 0433971544

cheers

Gezza

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys

my internet is broken at the moment so sorry if i haven't gotten back to you, am using my mates computer at the moment.

if there is anything your after you'll have to text me or call me on 0433971544

thanks

Gezza

  • 1 month later...

hey guys

internet back up and still got lots of stuff.

rear seats-$70

center console-$50

gear stick surround (leather is shit)-$20

rear arm rest things-$40

Series 2 black spoiler-$80

series 1 front bar (black spray paint)-$80

standard non airbag steering wheel-$40

can get more photos if you want. just txt me on 0433971544 and ill mms you.

cheers

Gezza

post-45569-1250418223_thumb.jpg

post-45569-1250418296_thumb.jpg

post-45569-1250418335_thumb.jpg

Hey man, do u have plastic that goes around drivers side door handle inside? Keen if so. mines a s2, do u know if they same?

hey mate

i do have one, not sure if s1 and s2 are the same though. PM me your phone number and ill send you some pics and you could have a look?

or maybe some1 on here could help out.

cheers

Gezza

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...