Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

With all the ebay trauling that I do I have notice of late there are more and more copies of Bride seats making it out there. Now I am not about to start down the track of my moral position on counterfiet product... but felt the need to open some discussion - create some awareness that there is now a number of sellers that are pushing these copies into the market as the real deal.

I actually bought a couple of pairs myself a while back - and I did so suspecting that they were not the real deal but I paid accordingly - partially out of curiousity (and partially out of the same attraction one has for a $10 rolex from Bali).

Anyway - what has got me is now people are claiming these are the real deal, made in japan geniune bride - and have documentation etc. AND while they are priced cheaply - they are not that cheap for a chinese made knock off. AND they are being flogged as if they are the real thing.

A couple of things that give away a copy seat:

1. Universal sliders (bride do not package ANY of there seats with universal rails)

2. Crooked logos (though the replicas are geting better - they still seem to struggle getting the logos perfectly centred and horizontal)

3. Stitching (Genuine brides have nothing short of immaculate stitching - the copies are getting better, but still, not perfect)

4. Price (if they seem too cheap - they probabley are, Chinese knock offs are around half of genuine price)

5. Packaging (plain boxes are a giveaway - though now the copies are coming with bride stickers and warranty cards).

The copies I have found are mostly Cuga, Vios and Gias - in both FRP and Carbon / Kevlar.

I would like to put up some pics of copies vs real - if anyone has inadvertantly (or intentionally) bought copies and would like to help others avoid making the same mistake - please feel free to contact me.

I am not saying dont buy the fakes - or that everyone on ebay is selling fakes, but it pains me to think of people forking out thousands of dollars for something that is being misrepresented.

If anyone has comment to add or and experience to share please do so.

Cheers!

Edited by Antimatter
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275400-bride-fakes-beware/
Share on other sites

Its good to raise some awareness on this. Just out of curiosity, has anyone done some comparisons between the real and fake seats; i.e. weight, strength of joins etc? it would be interesting to see how they compare. Sure, someone who wants the best is going to buy the real thing, but i'd like to know just how good are the copies really are.

when i was recently in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur in fact. I came across this area that had some sweet performance shops all in the same blocks. There was an interior place selling the fake bride seats. I couldn't tel the difference, had to ask and he said "copy".

The only way i eventually could tell was that where the front of the seat is the material isn't as neat when it is being tucked under the seat.

Sorry for the poor explanation, hard to explain. But yes if you look very closely you can tell. That is if you have seen the genuine product first. Not too mention the copies are cheap as hell.

That is a good point.

Bride do a number of impact and various other strength and safety tests - with the chinese copies you get none of that.

They might be ok - the ones I have seen the structure actually "looks" ok. But doubt anyone has spent the money on getting them tested (you have to destroy the seats to do this) and even then, if they change something in the designed, you really need to test them again. Bride will do this - the people that manufacture the copies wont.

That being said - there are some good chinese seats out there, but they have there own ISO / QC to adhear too and are not trying to sell there product as something it is not.

I suppose when you buy a counterfiet anything you are taking a gamble. That fake rolex you buy might work for a day or for 10 years. But the diffence being the rolex wont compromise your safety in a collision.

Edited by Antimatter

If you are going to buy the cheaper copy seats, at least buy the adr approved ones. The seats autobarn sell, saas, drift and isolata are trimmed in the same materail, so it is is probably safe to say they come out out the same factoryand are ADR approved. As with the JJR seats, they have been ADR tested.

As for quality. I have bought in the past 2 seats of cheap seats. That is what you get. The materail does not wear well, support varies between brands

I had a seat of drift D1 from autobarn, support was fairly good, but the materail started to come apart at the seams and wear marks after 4 weeks of use.

If you want copies, there is a shop in Brisbane that sells full copies and branded and sold so, of brides, recaro's for approx $650-700 pair

They look good at first, but when I had a look at the bride's the could see the material was not up to the quality.

I spoke with a guy from Hong Kong. He said you can buy a pair of these seats for about $60US pair and can bodykits for example for, like front bars could be landed in Australia for $39 each. So you can see what sort of quality you are getting. Someone here is making pleny of money.

I am in the market for some new seats again. I will be buying original Bride's or Recaro's this time around!!!

Yeah i've noticed how hard they are getting to tell apart. Me and my mate were looking at seats on ebay quite regularly recently and the amount of "cheap genuine Brides" is becoming a bit suspicious. Especially when they are all from Taiwan.....

eg: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TWO-BRIDE-ERGO-II-A...%3A1%7C294%3A50

eg: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TWO-BRIDE-CUGA-raci...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Yeah i've noticed how hard they are getting to tell apart. Me and my mate were looking at seats on ebay quite regularly recently and the amount of "cheap genuine Brides" is becoming a bit suspicious. Especially when they are all from Taiwan.....

eg: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TWO-BRIDE-ERGO-II-A...%3A1%7C294%3A50

eg: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TWO-BRIDE-CUGA-raci...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Wow, they look really good for copies..... indeed, really to tell apart from genuine in photo's.

You need to have a read on NS.com.au

Apparently the genuine Bride company in Japan (the only place the are made and badged made in japan) has lost their Bride name. The Taiwan company grabbed it and now badge thier seats as "bride"

That is why in the ebay ad's it says "not made in Japan"

I have not seen the Taiwan copies in person, they maybe great, they might not be either.

I think someone said on NS it is covered on the genuine Bride web site about the fakes and they might be changing thier name.

Not sure how true all this is, but that is what I have read.

Haha, if you look at a few bride ads on ebay, you'll see some that say something akin to "bride is a registered trademark in taiwan".

Basically, it means that the real Bride does not hold the trademark on it's name in taiwan. It's be a legal loophole that allows bootleggers to register the name in Taiwan for the purposes of producing cheap inferior products with the same name.

Or at least that's how i understand it.

At least those guys are going some way to divulge that the seats are not made in japan - there are others that are claiming they are the real deal (made in japan, genuine bride blah blah) and they are not.

Haha, if you look at a few bride ads on ebay, you'll see some that say something akin to "bride is a registered trademark in taiwan".

Basically, it means that the real Bride does not hold the trademark on it's name in taiwan. It's be a legal loophole that allows bootleggers to register the name in Taiwan for the purposes of producing cheap inferior products with the same name.

Or at least that's how i understand it.

A mate recently bought some bride seats on my behalf which were later returned when we suspected they might be fake. Luckily he had his own new genuine bride to compare against... in the end we couldnt be 100% sure they were fakes but putting it next to the known genuine seat (which had made in jp tags etc) there were enough differences to make us want to return them. The quality just wasn't quite right, the material didnt look as hard wearing & appeared shiny in the pic's, some dodgy stitching etc...

We took dozens of pics comparing the real and suspected fake differences - will try to dig them up if anyone is interested.

I remember comparing a fake fixed back to a genuine ages ago, the noticale difference was where the side bolts to the rail, the fakes didnt have the strength structually, looked like the bolt holes would rip straight out with a slight shunt. This was enough for me to never consider a copy again, i have used some of the cheaper ADR approved seats (OBX) and as someone mentioned before the only drawback was the matrial didnt last to well.

If you can dig those photos up that that would be great - let me know if you need a hand hosting / posting them.

A mate recently bought some bride seats on my behalf which were later returned when we suspected they might be fake. Luckily he had his own new genuine bride to compare against... in the end we couldnt be 100% sure they were fakes but putting it next to the known genuine seat (which had made in jp tags etc) there were enough differences to make us want to return them. The quality just wasn't quite right, the material didnt look as hard wearing & appeared shiny in the pic's, some dodgy stitching etc...

We took dozens of pics comparing the real and suspected fake differences - will try to dig them up if anyone is interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...