Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just build an air box 4 it outta sheet metal or like wise cuz it does crap without 1 anywayz as all its doin is sucking up all the hot air coming off ur engine...

i just whipped one up in a couple of days with a cai, cuz i got defected 4 mine as well lol, there aint that much of any gains in the NA but it sounds cool :laugh: ... if not just get a stockie n wack it on with a high flow panel filter, think i still got mine as well if ya still need it

Hi there,

I'm interested in getting that stock airbox off any of you guys, if you still have it..

How much would you like for it?

Just to confirm (I don't know much about cars :laugh: ) .. When I got my car, it has a greedy air pod filter. Now that I am going for a roadworthy, I've been told to remove that one because I have an intercooler, and apparently its not street legal to have both. What you guys have will fix my problem?

Cheers,

Val

Hi there,

I'm interested in getting that stock airbox off any of you guys, if you still have it..

How much would you like for it?

Just to confirm (I don't know much about cars :laugh: ) .. When I got my car, it has a greedy air pod filter. Now that I am going for a roadworthy, I've been told to remove that one because I have an intercooler, and apparently its not street legal to have both. What you guys have will fix my problem?

Cheers,

Val

intercooler? turbo? air box for an N/A is different mate, you'll be best to post in the 'Wanted To Buy' section.

If you got defected for a pod you dont need to put your stock air box, just go to autobarn and buy a pod shield...cost like $20 i think, you can have a pod...just as long as its covered. i kno this because i had a pod and needed a RWC so dont bother going to buy a stock air filter.

intercooler? turbo? air box for an N/A is different mate, you'll be best to post in the 'Wanted To Buy' section.

I need to replace this:

http://web.aanet.com.au/val/R34/17.JPG

with the stock one...

Please let me know what I need..

PS: What does NA stand for? ... My skyline is a GTT (single turbo)

Cheers

Edited by ndev777

This is the Naturally Aspirated part of the Skylines Australia Forum, that being non-turbo skylines.

The airbox for a N/A is different to that of a Turbocharged Skyline.

http://pds.exblog.jp/pds/1/200901/22/86/b0147786_2154144.jpg

http://www.exblog.jp/blog_logo.asp?slt=1&a...86_22444747.jpg

Your best bet would be one of these: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=272&page=2

This will fit with your factory intercooler piping, and the box won't foul FMIC piping if you have a FMIC that has piping that runs over the radiator.

Sourcing a factory airbox and snorkel, and a hi flow panel filter such as a K&N, would easily equate to the same cost if not more.

ohhh now it makes sense lol... i reckon it would be cheaper 2 make up ur own shielding n keep the pod u got... i paid no more than 5$ 4 mine n its polished metal just scrappy stuff but it looks pretty damm good n does the job

oh yeh make sure its all bolted on 2 cuz they will get ya on that as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...