Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes. Otherwise your car will be stiff in bump settings but relatively soft in roll. Which is not a very nice combination because it wont absorb road undulations very well nor probably corner as well as it could.

So i want the stiffest swaybars i can find? Which as far as i know is Cusco?

Not necessarilly as spring rates can be a bit of a personal preference thing. But I would say that they are pretty stiff in the overall scheme of things. For what it is worth mine are about half what the Apexi rates are. It does depend on alot of other things, however.

Ah well i've made my bed .. now i'll have to sleep in it :P

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So i want the stiffest swaybars i can find? Which as far as i know is Cusco?

Yeah you wont go far wrong with Cusco. They are better than the Whiteline ones because they are both stiffer & lighter. THe only reason I run a front Whiteline sway bar is as near as I can tell it is a little softer than the Cusco. But there is not much in it.

Ah well i've made my bed .. now i'll have to sleep in it :P

Hey, they may suit you just fine.

  • 3 months later...

Was wondering about sway bars.

I have Nismo S-Tune Coilovers for my 32 gtr.

Nismo have an S-tune Swaybar kit to match the suspension.

For a street car, would it be best to have the nismo swaybars to match, or the standard whiteline one?

I'm leaning towards nismo - cons - almost twice the cost. Pro - matched by nismo + street legal without needing engineering (in SA at least)

Also I read somewhere that using hollow swaybars actually xfer the weight transfer better to a solid bar due to the ability of the metal to rotate upon its own central axis? (correct me if I'm wrong, I'm no expert), and also the solid ones are heavier - that said, being a street car I'm not particularly worried about weight until it effects my fuel economy ;P

Just would like to hear ya'll opinion before I shell out for the nismo bars - if theres a convincing argument to the contrary, I'll get the whiteline ones. I just don't know a thing about swaybars (aside from "they are good")

-D

Was wondering about sway bars.

I have Nismo S-Tune Coilovers for my 32 gtr.

Nismo have an S-tune Swaybar kit to match the suspension.

For a street car, would it be best to have the nismo swaybars to match, or the standard whiteline one?

I'm leaning towards nismo - cons - almost twice the cost. Pro - matched by nismo + street legal without needing engineering (in SA at least)

Also I read somewhere that using hollow swaybars actually xfer the weight transfer better to a solid bar due to the ability of the metal to rotate upon its own central axis? (correct me if I'm wrong, I'm no expert), and also the solid ones are heavier - that said, being a street car I'm not particularly worried about weight until it effects my fuel economy ;P

Just would like to hear ya'll opinion before I shell out for the nismo bars - if theres a convincing argument to the contrary, I'll get the whiteline ones. I just don't know a thing about swaybars (aside from "they are good")

-D

Logically the Nismo sway bars will be tuned to the Nismo springs whereas the Whiteline bars will be for the whiteline springs. If they have advantages for roadworthiness where you are from then you are on a winner. How much are the Nismo items?

Hollow bars & solid bars work in exactly the same way - the hollow bars however are lighter for the same spring rate.

Logically the Nismo sway bars will be tuned to the Nismo springs whereas the Whiteline bars will be for the whiteline springs. If they have advantages for roadworthiness where you are from then you are on a winner. How much are the Nismo items?

Hollow bars & solid bars work in exactly the same way - the hollow bars however are lighter for the same spring rate.

$750 delivered for the nismo items front and rear, and around $450 for the whiteline. I reckon you're right. I'll hit up the nismos. Thx for feedback!

-D

do u know the diameter of the nismo items front n rear? im looking for swaybars atm and have nismo s-tune suspension in my 33gtr...

also do the nismo item come with link kit or do u just attatch to the originals?

1 last thing, wat site did u see the nismo swaybars on, i think thats a great price...

cheers

do u know the diameter of the nismo items front n rear? im looking for swaybars atm and have nismo s-tune suspension in my 33gtr...

also do the nismo item come with link kit or do u just attatch to the originals?

1 last thing, wat site did u see the nismo swaybars on, i think thats a great price...

cheers

Website at RHD says 22/27mm swaybars, not sure about links

I saw them on RHDJapan - http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-suspension-system-stabilizer-set-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-56105 this is the package they get bundled with the S-Tune shockers as well

Here is the standalone set - just need to save some dosh so I can buy them for my Xmas pressie this year heh

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-stabilizer-kit-pv35-cpv35-bnr32-z33-56139

-D

Edit - incidentally I was wrong on the price, thats $750 not including delivery

Also - it seems the front and rear nismos are only a 1.2mm increase in diameter - whether they use a solid or hollow bar I dont know, or what grade of metal... not sure of how this all factor in...

Website at RHD says 22/27mm swaybars, not sure about links

I saw them on RHDJapan - http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-suspension-system-stabilizer-set-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-56105 this is the package they get bundled with the S-Tune shockers as well

Here is the standalone set - just need to save some dosh so I can buy them for my Xmas pressie this year heh

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-stabilizer-kit-pv35-cpv35-bnr32-z33-56139

-D

Edit - incidentally I was wrong on the price, thats $750 not including delivery

Also - it seems the front and rear nismos are only a 1.2mm increase in diameter - whether they use a solid or hollow bar I dont know, or what grade of metal... not sure of how this all factor in...

A small increase in od makes a big difference in the rate - probably of the order of 20% in this instance (A rough estimate). The Nismo items will be hollow. The steel grade has little to no influence on the spring rate.

A small increase in od makes a big difference in the rate - probably of the order of 20% in this instance (A rough estimate). The Nismo items will be hollow. The steel grade has little to no influence on the spring rate.

excellent, thanks for the input

I know what the fat man in a red suit is bringing me this xmas

-D

  • 1 year later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I thought it'd be better than starting a new one. I'm looking for a set of sway bars for my 32 GTR and was wondering if anyone had an opinion on what to get and prices in Melbourne.

At the moment I was looking at Whiteline adjustable's on eBay for $500 for the pair. This is purely a track car.

Oh and it has some shitty old Tein coilovers in it.

Whiteline only offer the 22mm front and 24 rear adjustables anyway, so it's not as though you have as much choice as GTSt's do.

I realise that a GTR is a different car. On that basis I would expect that if you did what I have done (see below) then you might not get quite the same balance I have. This is especially true because the overall roll stiffness at each end is a function of the roll bars, the springs and the dampers, and of course these will all be different between any two cars unless set up identically. Notwithstanding that, I would suggest that being a track car, you would want lots of roll stiffness. Unless you are going to have very stiff coilovers in it, that means getting big bars. With no choice in sizing, you get the bars they offer.

My recent experience with R32 GTSt has been that 24mm adjustable Whiteline bars at each end are a good thing. I was concerned that there would be too much roll stiffness and the car would be skaty in the wet, but the opposite is true - it is just fine. I have mine set stiff at the front and soft at the rear - this is not from trial and error. The rear was set soft because I previously had a stock 22mm bar on the front and it was understeery. When I put the 24 on the front I left the rear alone. I really like the balance, so have had no reason to try different settings.

Further info. Stock R32 GTSt front bar is hollow 22mm. I can only estimate how thick the walls on it are, but given the estimate I made, the 24mm I upgraded to is at least 50% stiffer, possibly as much as 90% stiffer than stock. 24mm solid is only 20% stiffer than 22mm solid. If you were to get a Nismo (or Cusco or any other brand that offers something hollow) bar and it was hollow it would have to be a fair bit thicker than the 24mm solid to be any stiffer. I am aware of 27 and 28mm diameter bars from the Jap brands. These would probably be close to equivalent to the 24mm Whiteline bar. Given that you can only get a 22mm front from Whiteline, the Jap bars are probably decently more stiff.

I don't know if this has been helpful or not.

Thanks for the opinion mate. I get that all cars are different and that spring rates play a big part part in what bars to go with. Wish I knew what my spring rates were, they're pretty stiff what ever they are.

I guess eventually I'll just purchase the Whitelines and have a bit of a play to see what I like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...