Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 147
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

There's no stock standard R35 (which I'm kinda cut about) but there are 5 JGTC R35s in there to choose from.

I went through my affordable car list before (that's a nifty feature! Lists every car from worst to bad that you can afford!) and some were locked out, so I'll be doing the DLC stuff tonight me thinks...

Apparently its something to do with a deal done between Nissan and Polypohny Digital (the developers of the Gran Turismo series). Polyphony helped them develop the user interface and did some of the programming for the new GTR, so there keeping the GTR out of the hands of their arch enemy Microsoft and there direct competitor the Forza series.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277410-forza-3/page/7/#findComment-4905079
Share on other sites

You won't regret buying a wheel :P I actually don't know what Forza 3 is like with the game controller, but I had the same thing when playing Forza 2.. you reach a point where you really need the wheel and pedals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277410-forza-3/page/7/#findComment-4914378
Share on other sites

Ok, picked this up a few weekends ago and have to say I'm hooked! I love that driving from the inside of the car is so intuitive as good as outside the car.

So, who plays it online? Can you set up your own races for others to join?

I haven't upgraded to Gold Live but may be worth it for this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277410-forza-3/page/7/#findComment-4914809
Share on other sites

awesome game... dont bother dragging in anything other then a Datsun 500 if the person your racing has a Datsun 500 because you will get owned.

go to the eventlist and access the drag races from there or setup a custom online game and do it from there, if you want to practice, just set it up as private and dont invite anyone, likewise for dori.

i think the best part is making huge amounts of money from selling cars. ive sold so many pos sprinters which i have used a design template i made with snow camo for 150k+ after only spending about 30k on it. Online auctions and fanboys rock.

definately filling the void until GT5 comes along... and i will definately be buying a good wheel setup and invest some time in a racing cockpit for them both.

if anyone wants to add me online, feel free, the gamertag is inark funnily enough

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277410-forza-3/page/7/#findComment-4915630
Share on other sites

all the top drift scores ive seen have been that setup... i seriously cant drift with the controller... im not even going to attempt setting a score without getting a G25 or 27 first

My Datsun 510 has over 700kw :laugh:

Best i can get out of it though is a 9.8 1/4

I need to learn to tune cars properly cause i know you can squeeze an 8 out of it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277410-forza-3/page/7/#findComment-4920001
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...