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never ending story, went to drive my car after being away for four months, was running fine previously.. had stale fuel which was causing hesitation so fresh fuel was added (bp 98).. car was tuned at creatd in feb and parked in the garage soon afterwards

car is drivable for a little while before it dies completely, no stuttering or weird noises prior to total power loss.. wont restart until car is totally powered off for bout 5 mins and drives for a bit before dying again.. no particular revs or length of time before dying

PFC hand controller showed nismo afm 2 as faulty prior on ignition, so I swapped it with afm 1 but afm 2 still shows as faulty, wiggled afm wires but no change in rev or improvement in regards to hunting

cleaned both afms with contact cleaner

car now hunts on idle between 850 - 1200 rpm

checked pipes for splits and re-tightened bolts

earthed fuel pump control module and earthed fuel pump -ve feed to chassis.. fuel pump primes fine

new spark plugs bcpr6es (copper) added 0.8 gapped

PFC shows 13.8v battery while driving

fuses in engine bay and inside checked

im leaning towards an electrical fault as power loss is sudden and total

is it normal for PFC to show afm 2 as faulty (0.02v) vs afm 1 (0.05v) on ignition.. does it fall into a particular range?

while driving the car, both afms appear to be working fine voltage wise (afm 2 is alway slightly less than afm 1).. while idling if i rev to 5500rpm there is sputtering along the way

tomei fuel pump is 2nd hand and was installed earlier in the year, would the symptoms suggest dying fuel pump?

will be looking an fuel filter later tonight however it was replaced 10K ago

still have stock coilpacks which seem in good nick, never had hesitation problems previously, running 1bar boost

suggestion please..

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was it left completely off for that long? maybe gunk in the fuel tank is clogging the pump n filter

coil packs maybe when they heat up? i would definitely change the oil and pop in a bottle of injector cleaner too jst for piece of mind.

yeah car was left completely off, had a trickle charger connected to the battery in the meantime.. oil + filter was changed 300kms ago (back in feb).. might have to have another look at coil packs.. gonna get fuel filter now

Could be fuel pump also, I had this problem on my gtst a few years ago.. Quite random dropouts. Could be driving along, and then just dead as a nail. Took me a couple of $$ tows and much swearing, but finally sorted it.

Check voltages at the pump I guess..

If you crank it after it dies, does teh handcontroller show rpm, sounds more like cas or igniter.

will confirm upon next failure most likely tmrw

Could be fuel pump also, I had this problem on my gtst a few years ago.. Quite random dropouts. Could be driving along, and then just dead as a nail. Took me a couple of $$ tows and much swearing, but finally sorted it.

Check voltages at the pump I guess..

ill try and swap the current tomei out with my old stock one and see

there are no issues with your AFM readings, 0.02 and 0.05 are fine

check the basics and perform a fluid change and battery charge up

PFC picks up afm 2 @ 0.02 as a sensor fault.. is that to be expected?? battery appears fine while driving 13.8v just prior to total failure, will double check earth points and do an extra earth to the ignitor

im pretty sure they are the same. there are two types. one is a mitsubishi with a black spot in the middle and there is a hitachi. these are the same on the rb20de 20det and 25de and the 26dett. not 100% sure about the rb25det. i think the mitsus are used on the earlier model cars pre 92 however in fast 33gtr's also showed the mitsu unit.

check the earth at the back (firewall) of your coil packs. Mine was just loose and once the motor heated up it would lose contact, stall and then start 5 mins later once it had cooled.

thanks mate, will definately check and will run another earth for good measure

These things run a external igniter? That's classic igniter/PTU failure symptoms for a Z32. Once they get warm they just die, fine once they cool down again.

the external igniter, just to double check, is that what sits underneath near where the stock boost solenoid on rb26 is mounted?

oh you mean the sensor is highlighted in a black background and the engine check light comes on ?

the afm 2 reads 0.02v and is highlighted in black background on ignition, but dont get the engine light, only once during the many cutouts, the cat warning lamp (orange) came on at the same time as it died, no other light has come up as yet..

got hold of my old fuel pump to test with, and stock rb20 cas

can anyone come stock base fuel pressure is 35psi on idle??

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