Jump to content
SAU Community

Water/meth Injection Kit.

Daboss

By Daboss,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
There was a bloke on calais turbo forums who ran it pre turbo, and after a couple of years he was saying there was no noticeable wear on the blades....perhaps a billet compressor wheel could fix that over the standard type, if it were a problem. I believe he has a high pressure pump, along with a y piece valve that took boost pressure from the manifold and with the water pressure plus boost pressure it atomised the air even better then just straight water pressure....I believe this valve is easily bought, where from i dont know. I never looked into it much more.

But with it pre turbo, i believe he was able to squeese an extra 70-80hp out of it as it was flowing enough air as if it were a 800hp turbo, rather then the 700hp it actually was.

? dont get it - spray into the intake (after AFM) or drill into the compressor housing itself and spray on the blades?

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted
? dont get it - spray into the intake (after AFM) or drill into the compressor housing itself and spray on the blades?

Drilling into the compressor wheel housing and spraying onto the blades would be BAD!!! Guaranteed damage to comp wheel....Its like this...The further along the blade you go from the turbo shaft, the faster that part of the blade is moving. Damage / wear on the blade is cause by the collision of the blade and the water droplet. So to minimise the collision you want as slow as possible blade velocity (towards centre of comp wheel and not the outer) and very small water droplets.

So very finely atomised water directed towards the centre of the compressor wheel is the best setup. Getting the atomisation right is the big thing..

Don't try it unless you really understand this as guaranteed you'll be after a new comp wheel and maybe more in no time...WI after compressor is safer IMO...

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

sorry i should have been more clear, spray towards the centre of shaft/wheel, not onto the blades for the reasons that rb2530 said.

Obviously its not right infront of the wheel, some distance would help the meth/water evaporate(atleast partially) before hitting the compressor.

But i do believe he used a water/meth mix in his setup.

I would only try it if i had a billet compressor wheel, like some of the turbos coming out of the states have....it would stand a far better chance, especially if not setup correctly.

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted
So where's the best place to get a kit in Aus??

i want a proper kit not a home made job...

coolingmist this is the one ive got is very good.its in the us very fast postage.

varicooltrunkmountinstructions.pdf

Daboss Experienced

Daboss

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
coolingmist this is the one ive got is very good.its in the us very fast postage.

Yea coolingmist is also the kit I am using,"The Thread Starter" and I finally got it to work properly and I must say its excellent. When I got it to work properly I saw afr drop of .5 to a 1 point from my standard tune. So I was able to take out some more fuel and the car is even heaps more fun to drive. Plus I have that cushion of safety so I am more inclined to run it hard. I have an safc 2 to monitor and the highest knock reading I got from the idle reading of about 28 was 48 when I did the recall feature. So I consider that to be about a knock of 20. Now I want to try and increase my timing to get the full use out of the kit. I am still on stock turbo and injectors running about 20-22 degrees of timing at full boost of 12psi. I know it is car specific, but I was wondering what would be a decent amount of timing to increase it by? To "The Mafia" if he reads this I know you have alot of experience, or anyone with knowledge,I wanted to know how much timing should I be able to run with kit installed and a 50/50 mix. Also, if the tune has timing at 20-22 on wot what would increasing base timing do, for example if timing is at 10 on the ecu and I increase base timing by 5 degrees would that in turn increase that 10 on the ecu to 15? Also noone ever said what amount of oil to put into a 1.5 gallon kit and what kinda.

Edited by Daboss
axe s Experienced

axe s

Posted
Posted
coolingmist this is the one ive got is very good.its in the us very fast postage.

Yeah i was looking at on from coolingmist or full-throttle.com.au...

Is there an aus supplier for coolingmist??

Don't know whether to go for there trunk mount kit or custom tank... i think a tank with baffles and trap doors would be better for circuit work...

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted
Yeah i was looking at on from coolingmist or full-throttle.com.au...

Is there an aus supplier for coolingmist??

Don't know whether to go for there trunk mount kit or custom tank... i think a tank with baffles and trap doors would be better for circuit work...

no oz supplier there tank is very good you dont need all the trap door ++++ the way the tank is its very good the pump is in the middle and the high sides help, the water is not moving to much in that tank and the pick up is at the bottom you would have to go thru 4 litters befor it hits the bottom of the tank and then there is 2 more litters

Parag0n Mentor

Parag0n

Posted
Posted

Plenty of rotaries I've seen are using WI alone or a WI / Meth mix, mainly because you will get detonation above 18-20psi on standard pump fuel (98 RON) in a wankel engine.

http://www.riceracing.com.au/water-injection.htm

Pete has made dozens of these kits and sells around 4-5 each week. I'd email him with any of your questions.

I've seen motors running Garret GT50's almost double their power with water injection alone, simply because of the amount of boost you will be able to pump through the engine without risk of detonation compared to a standard pump fuel mixture.

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted
Yea coolingmist is also the kit I am using,"The Thread Starter" and I finally got it to work properly and I must say its excellent. When I got it to work properly I saw afr drop of .5 to a 1 point from my standard tune. So I was able to take out some more fuel and the car is even heaps more fun to drive. Plus I have that cushion of safety so I am more inclined to run it hard. I have an safc 2 to monitor and the highest knock reading I got from the idle reading of about 28 was 48 when I did the recall feature. So I consider that to be about a knock of 20. Now I want to try and increase my timing to get the full use out of the kit. I am still on stock turbo and injectors running about 20-22 degrees of timing at full boost of 12psi. I know it is car specific, but I was wondering what would be a decent amount of timing to increase it by? To "The Mafia" if he reads this I know you have alot of experience, or anyone with knowledge,I wanted to know how much timing should I be able to run with kit installed and a 50/50 mix. Also, if the tune has timing at 20-22 on wot what would increasing base timing do, for example if timing is at 10 on the ecu and I increase base timing by 5 degrees would that in turn increase that 10 on the ecu to 15? Also noone ever said what amount of oil to put into a 1.5 gallon kit and what kinda.

Apologies in advance if I am off the mark here but I detect some inuendo this post?? You ask simple questions about complicated issues and expect simple answers??

If you substitute your actual numbers (water / methanol flow rate) into my way of approximating what your drop in afr may be you will find I am actually pretty close to the mark...

I 'may' have some ideas about how much extra timing you can run...But since you are the 'Thread starter' I will leave it to you to find 'someone with knowledge'

GOOD LUCK!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...