Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt Problem.....a Mystery?

blitz r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
Posted

for a while my R33 gtst has had a screeching noise coming out especially on cold mornings where i had my new timing belt put in.

i took it to my mech and he said not to worry about it so naturally i went to another mech in town who took a look at it and my timing belt was about 1cm thick in width and he said he was amazed it hadn't snapped and seized my engine up.

he told me to take it back to the mech who originally put it in cause it should be under warrenty so i went down there and left my car there over night.

went back today and he reckons he cant find anything that is causing it except one of the bearings was a bit loose but he doesnt know if that was causing it so i had to get new bearings and a timing belt and new cam gears which i have to pay for which i think is bulls***!

do you guys know what could have shredded my timing belt like that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278457-timing-belt-problema-mystery/
Share on other sites
Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

Honestly i think the first mechanic installed it wrong, its probably not aligned straight so its grinding against something. id get another mechanic to put in a new one and take photos of the shredded timing belt so you can possibly be reimbursed by the first mechanic.....long shot i know

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

My advice is not to ever let the first mechanic look or touch your car again, never leave it there overnight or let them "fix" their first job....

Just get your cash back if you can, fight them, if you still cant then don't be too upset, your car is still driving after being butchered. Find a reputable mechanic in Sydney to have a look at it.

GL with it mate

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

This may not be the same problem at all, but...

My Prelude had a split/shredded timing belt at 218000Km ie. not even 20xxxKm after the new belt was put in.

I was left stranded with no compression in the cylinders after taking off from the lights & the engine went dead.

The car went back to my mechanic, who found out that a B/T Bolt that sits on top of the hydraulic tensioner and acts like a pivot point snapped, causing the belt to shred lengthways right around the circumference. Fortunately, the valves weren't 'kissed' or bent. There were fatigue points near the fracture, which meant that the bolt had been bent over for some time before it finally broke.

So if it happens again... :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...
Chrisrotary Apprentice

Chrisrotary

Posted
Posted

Yeah thats pretty unusual im struggling to think what really might have caused that to happen.

Maybe it was over tightened or something.

But it should sound the same when you pick it up as when you left it. You have to accept mistakes happen, manufacturing faults happen. Because its under warranty you should leave it to the mechanic to rectify it at no charge. I was working in a small workshop once and we changed a few cam belts with kits from a reputable supplier only the bearings kept failling one or two weeks later. we had to then waste hours of our time swapping them out only to get a cost refund from the cambelt kit people with no explaination. coping angry customers left right and center.

You should not be charged for the bearings and belt if thats what you paid for and screwed up.

casper r33 Rookie

casper r33

Posted
Posted
for a while my R33 gtst has had a screeching noise coming out especially on cold mornings where i had my new timing belt put in.

i took it to my mech and he said not to worry about it so naturally i went to another mech in town who took a look at it and my timing belt was about 1cm thick in width and he said he was amazed it hadn't snapped and seized my engine up.

he told me to take it back to the mech who originally put it in cause it should be under warrenty so i went down there and left my car there over night.

went back today and he reckons he cant find anything that is causing it except one of the bearings was a bit loose but he doesnt know if that was causing it so i had to get new bearings and a timing belt and new cam gears which i have to pay for which i think is bulls***!

do you guys know what could have shredded my timing belt like that?

The timing belt was probablely rubbing on something eg the timing belt cover.

SL33K Experienced

SL33K

Posted
Posted

i had the same problem with my r33.

i used to head this weird noise (screeching/Whinin Loud) after a new timing belt was installed. i was told its normal for new belts to do that. and it was a Gates racing belt so i heard its normal with them.

i forgot about it and one morning at 4am when i was on my way to work i started hearin this loud ticking noise which used to go away when i Rev over 2000RPM. i got scared parked at a gas station.....

then decided to continue driving without letting the car rev below 2000RPM and went to work all the way to Armadale from Bentley(stupid i know but had no choice was already halfway there). drove back from armadale after work same way.

Got it towed to the workshop who did the timing belt thing a few weeks ago and they sed that i had snapped a bolt that holds the tensioner pulley, maybe because the belt was too tight. but i was lucky the belt was still on and there was no Engine Damage.

They had to fit a new tensioner pulley and new Timing belt all for FREE :rofl:

I dont think they shud make u pay for it... u PAY them to fit a new belt. u Drive the car coz thats what its meant for... the car suddenly has a problem wit the timing belt? I SAY THEY PAY

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The timing belt was probablely rubbing on something eg the timing belt cover.

Ive got an update for you's.......

the 1st mechanic is a d*** head and will not be getting paid and i will never go to him again!

i took it to another mechanic who does alot of work on imports in my town and i told him about what happened and it turned out it was my alternator belt that was doing all the screeching and it was luck that i mentioned that it may have been my timing belt and found out what was happening to it,it was rubbing/shredding because the 1st mechanic didn't fit it properly.

so naturally the import mechanic wanted to have a look at the newest timing belt the 1st mech had just installed and guess what........it was doing the exact same thing again,it was already showing signs of wear so he fixed it properly for me and he didnt even charge me he said it was on the house.

he said he reckons the 1st mech was doing this on purpose thinking if it kept stuffing up i would keep going back to him so he can keep milking me or he was retarded.

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
Ive got an update for you's.......

the 1st mechanic is a d*** head and will not be getting paid and i will never go to him again!

i took it to another mechanic who does alot of work on imports in my town and i told him about what happened and it turned out it was my alternator belt that was doing all the screeching and it was luck that i mentioned that it may have been my timing belt and found out what was happening to it,it was rubbing/shredding because the 1st mechanic didn't fit it properly.

so naturally the import mechanic wanted to have a look at the newest timing belt the 1st mech had just installed and guess what........it was doing the exact same thing again,it was already showing signs of wear so he fixed it properly for me and he didnt even charge me he said it was on the house.

he said he reckons the 1st mech was doing this on purpose thinking if it kept stuffing up i would keep going back to him so he can keep milking me or he was retarded.

Wow, didnt expect that. Definitely stick with this mechanic as he seems to have some integrity.

Businesses dont know about customer relations, you cant survive on a single customer coming once; word to mouth will bring the customer back with his friends.

Glad you got it fixed mate

ELMOHASA33 Enthusiast

ELMOHASA33

Posted
Posted

I cant belive how inept your first mehcanic must be changing a rb timming belt takes like an hour max and is one of the easyest timming belts to change "id hate to see that guy try a twin cam v6" you should post his name or business name so others dont make the same mistake...

maybe we should start a bodgie backyarder thread or somthing so we can list all these half assed grease monkeys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...