Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps,

My standard RB25 clutch is completely fried, i mean it slips in every gear :D

Obviously i need a new clutch, so i was looking at an Exedy HD Clutch?

Can i get some opinions on different types of clutches you have in your cars and a rough pricing guide. Also where to buy from.

My RB is only lightly modded with a full exhaust, FMIC, pod, and boost - so 260-270rwhp is the max it makes. However i want a cluutch that can safely handle up to say 300-320rwhp.

Cheers for any help :D

Forgot to add, i'll be installing the clutch myself with some help from my brother :)

Edited by syfon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278946-need-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

I quite like the "Ace Clutch" (not sure who makes it) but it has a nice feel to it (IMO) and can handle some decent power. You can also happily park the car without needing to get a little right foot happy.

coventrys are the agent for either exedy or extreme clutch's

i run a exedy 5 puck in my gtr and it is fine

or if you want the best get a jim berry clutch from over east

Edited by gazza750

Slide have a great range of clutches: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cheapest-Clutch-Kits-Aus-t200652.html

I got my Exedy 3 puk of them. . . Believe it or not its a comfortable drive and it slams in every gear. I love it.

If your going to go for a clutch, go Exedy. You wont regret it, worth every dollar! :P

Dont use slide, use kudos motorsport... Exedy HD clutch is fine for your HP application and they are around $550 delivered. You'll have to machine your stock flywheel as well, unless you buy an exedy lightened flywheel which is what I should have done :P

Alternatively if your not comfortable installing, labour is around $450 for machined flywheel, install and genuine gearbox oil :nyaanyaa:

Edited by Dani Boi
Hey peeps,

My standard RB25 clutch is completely fried, i mean it slips in every gear :nyaanyaa:

Obviously i need a new clutch, so i was looking at an Exedy HD Clutch?

Can i get some opinions on different types of clutches you have in your cars and a rough pricing guide. Also where to buy from.

My RB is only lightly modded with a full exhaust, FMIC, pod, and boost - so 260-270rwhp is the max it makes. However i want a cluutch that can safely handle up to say 300-320rwhp.

Cheers for any help :P

Forgot to add, i'll be installing the clutch myself with some help from my brother ;)

If you want it to last and handle 320rwhp i would strongly recommend not getting an exedy single hd clutch.

Pay a bit more and get a full monty clutch from Jim Berry. I am just about to go pick mine up with it installed so i will let you know how it feels. From what ive heard it feels like stock but bites like a pit bull and will last forever.

Personally i don't like the feel of organic clutches...my brother has one in his 180sx and its kinda weird to use but its kinda cool at the same time.

I prefer being able to feel the friction point - feeling it bite

I rang CBA Malaga and they quoted $600.00 + GST for an Exedy HD Cushion Button clutch....

I can prob get it about $50.00 cheaper from CBA Malaga through someone i know so say $550.00 + GST....

Is that a reasonable price?

u can get it for around $500 or less if u get it off nissansilvia.com, or even a trader off here will have a deal that is cheaper than what u have been quoted b4. off the top of my head for the same clutch u mentioned it was about $496 + $20 postage off ns.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...