Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dsc00280avn.jpg

The red circle is where the accual motor is behind the panel.

The 4 green dots are the 4 screws that hold the assembly in place

The 2 red dots are the screws that control the levelness of the window

dsc00281lem.jpg

The blue circle is the alligned bolt

The 3 green circles are where the screw holes line up, in relation the the visible screws

In the first picture you can see my main problem, that is where the window stops at the fully down position. The reason that the window stops in this position is because the gear that the motor turns runs out of teeth before the window is fully down. When in the up position, there is still a further 12 spare teeth remaining on the gear, with wear marks a further 6 teeth up, leading me to assume that it has worked correctly before.

I've had the assembly out a number of times trying to make an adjustment. Ive been removing the motor and rotating the gear to the correct allignment then replacing the motor, but this is where i have a problem. When i re install the assembly into the door, i can only get one screw to line up (blue screw 2nd pic). The 3 other screws holes (green dots 2nd pic) are slightly off when compared to the screws. I cant find a way to rotate the assembly once it is in the door as its in there firm and wont budge. The only way i can adjust it is by using the motor, which then rotates the assembly until the screws line up. Problem being when i rotate it using the motor, im loosing the 6 extra teeth ive gained when i adjusted it, and i end up back where i started.

How am i able to make an adjustment to the gear so that i gain 6 teeth, without changing the alignment of the motor assembly so that i have the green screws line up when i re install the assembly?

Cheers

Edited by Sparky206

Yes im running out of teeth and thats whats stopping it. Problem is that to get the 4 green screws in, the window has to be at the same position each time, otherwise they do not line up. Meaning that if i adjust it while its out, i end up having to run the motor a bit to rotate the screw holes so that they line up, then im back where i started.

it doesnt matter if the window is up or down, to get the screws to line up, the window and hence gear needs to be at the correct spot, what im looking for is how to change this spot about 6 teeth further up

I replaced my motor recently. Best way is to undo everything so its not hooked up at all, then like you said, run the window untill you get clearance to remove whats left and re-assemble the motor correctly.

I had an issue with mine that where the glass runs through the rubber by the mirror, there is a seam in the track. For some reason the seam split and caught the rubber/glass and popped and cracked all the plastic wheels in the track. :blink:

Its not overly hard to take everything out. Just think about it and mark the adjustable areas if your unsure how they go back.

But by the sounds of it, for some reason yours has either skipped the teeth somehow, or someone put it together wrong previously?

I just realised how incredibly difficult it is to try help with problems like this haha. Need to point and show! E-Info = :blink:

If you do get it out, for goodness sakes be CAREFUL with the tension coil. That thing randomly popped off my regulator sitting on the floor and took a chunk out of my garage floor. If it doesnt hit anything on the way, it could cause serious damage to your head, or paint job/glass. LOL

I think it has been put togeather wrongly before, judging by how rounded the screws were. I have no problems getting the assembly out, ive had it out 4 times now. Its just that any adjustment i make, means that i can not get the green screws to line up again

  • 2 months later...

I had to pull my motor out the other day as the window was stuck down. Im waiting for the replacement to arrive, but Im worried about being able to put it back together as this is my first attempt.

To take it out I undid the those 4 "green" dots from your first photo, then the 3 screws that hold the motor on. What is the easiest way to put it back together to make sure everything aligns etc.? Should I pull out the regulator out and out the motor on? Or try to put the 4 "green" screws back on then put the motor in? Im not really sure where the "green" screws screw onto! Its so hard to see whats happening in there!

Any help would be great!

  • 2 weeks later...

All in and working.

But I think my switch on the door to control the windows may be dodgy and the reason why the motor burnt out in the first place.

Can someone tell me on there S1 R33 the drivers side switch to lower and raise the drivers window, which way do you move the switch to lower the window? On mine you pull it up towards you, which doesnt seem right, as the passengers window you push the button down (away from you).

On every car I've ever seen it's always down with the switch for window down. Has yours always been this way?

The polarity is incorrect. Did you just plug the motor into the connector or did you have to wire it because there was no plug on the motor? The other possibility is you've got a LH motor and that might explain the reverse polarity, can't be sure because I haven't seen the passenger motor or regulator.

Well I just checked the the plug again and it only goes in one way. As for the motor, Im pretty sure drivers and passengers are not interchangeable, I think they are mirror image. Plus the motor looked exactly the same.

TBH Im not sure which way the switch went because, I'd only had the car a week or so before the window played up. And the switch seemed dicky then. It does seem odd to pull the switch up to make th window go down.

On every car I've ever seen it's always down with the switch for window down. Has yours always been this way?

The polarity is incorrect. Did you just plug the motor into the connector or did you have to wire it because there was no plug on the motor? The other possibility is you've got a LH motor and that might explain the reverse polarity, can't be sure because I haven't seen the passenger motor or regulator.

I tell you its starting to do my head in! I just checked the wires again, and they are plugged in the exact same way as the old motor was. The wires are the exact same colour aswell. I checked the passengers side motor wires and they are slightly different. So looks like it is the right motor etc. Could it be anything else, like the black box causing this? Also would a I do any damage if I tried the wires around the other way?

Could be that someone's reversed the polarity of the switch then. Can't really think of any other reason why you'd have to lift the switch to make the window go down. I wouldn't reverse the wiring, see if you can find yourself a new switch from someone wrecking a 33. I think the switches (connectors) are different between S1 & S2.

Could be that someone's reversed the polarity of the switch then. Can't really think of any other reason why you'd have to lift the switch to make the window go down. I wouldn't reverse the wiring, see if you can find yourself a new switch from someone wrecking a 33. I think the switches (connectors) are different between S1 & S2.

All good mate, I rang the bloke I got the motor from. He advised me to reverse the wires as you suggested. He said it may have been rewired wrong when it got refurbished. So I swapped the wires and it works like new! Very happy camper! Thankyou to everyone the helps on this forum!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...