Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yesterday i got a bit done i got the bottom end built ill be starting on the seam welding and the cage and cutting the boot out and the parchel shelf and makeing new ones when i finish building my shed and can put my hoist in and put a over head crane in

post-41983-1249778263_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1249778476_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1249778582_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Since you are cutting the floor out the boot are you putting in a fuel cell or keeping the standard tank?

Keep up the good work.

ill be running a 40 ltr foam filled cell at this stage was going to go a 20 ltr one but i would only get 10 minutes out of my car before i would need refueling

a small up date progress is slow as im waiting to finish my shed before i start on cage and seam welding just ordering part as i can aford them

today my fuel pressure reg bov and injectors and fuel rail turned up today and the head is finally stripped ready for porting

post-41983-1250680663_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1250680814_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1250680983_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1250681114_thumb.jpg

any light weight 18 by 10 by +15 ofset rims i can kind at a cheap price i was going to run the standard rims with 350 rotors but i want to run 285 semis this time with 365 rotors as i got a good deal on the rotors

  • 1 month later...

not much progress lately as ive hert my back and will be off work for 8 weeks un paid

all ive done is make up a new power steering bracket so i can machine of the front pulley and machine down the second pulley on the balancer and run a crank angle sensor not cam angle sensor

and ive worked out the static compression and ported the head i was going to go futher with the porting but didnt no how far i could push it

the short motor is now asembled here is some pics

and the manifold is complete so i can start putting my black car back together

post-41983-1253658083_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658236_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658392_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658510_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658808_thumb.jpg

post-41983-1253658931_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...