Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have one 400r kit for a r33

give to me as payment for a part that i sold. so its for sale

kit consists of

front

side

rear bar

front grill

and eylids

unpainted but ready to go

same as one below

you have to paint it which mean probably 600

dont really want to sepparate

asking 900

pete 0409226626 sydney

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2800-400-r-bodykit/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

fatz,

i might be keen if you can hold off for a little while...

i am paying insurance this month as well as getting a S-AFC, so i'd be hella keen in a month or two.

if not, then thats cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2800-400-r-bodykit/#findComment-49812
Share on other sites

kit is new *** sik as lol

Gerds - im talking to a few people to find out how much it would be to paint tha bastard... looks like being 600 at a place on paramata road. that make 1500 and *** me for 500 ill fit the bastard cant be that hard couple of self tappers and a few hours(never done it so thats a bit tounge in cheek).

prank- if its still there when your ready no dramas

jimbo- fresh out of the molds

front bar

side skirts

rear bar

front grill

and eylids

for 300 more can get a gtr wing if you like but i doubt it

pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2800-400-r-bodykit/#findComment-50249
Share on other sites

place on para cant remeber its name but when i worked for big boyz toys they sent a few car there so i know the guy now.

he did a repair and paint blue metalic flake front and side skirts for 600 and that was tops so im sure standard paint would be cheaper

can and will find out the name on the weekend but its opposit bp and where the old hooters was

prank- yup they r **** hot fill the guards nicely ill take a photo in a minute and post it up. stake knifes r dodgy but there yours from a drunken night at blackstump stole a few for kicks

body kit pphotos will be up tommorow night depending of drunkeness

r

pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2800-400-r-bodykit/#findComment-50773
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...