Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i went to my mechanic today so he can install my Turbotech boost controller.. He recons i need a gauge.. anyone know a cheap one i can get? and he also recons my Current Exhaust is too thin for my car to be boosted anymore (i want 11psi) do you guys recon my exhaust will be fine or i should get a new one..?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280047-boosting-r33-gtst-questions/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

what exhaust do you have? if it is stock then no, don't boost it anymore as it isn't going to be good for the turbo. it will keep in the heat and shorten the life of the turbo. you really need a 3" turbo back system.

as for gauges, just get a cheap $50 drift one

what exhaust do you have? if it is stock then no, don't boost it anymore as it isn't going to be good for the turbo. it will keep in the heat and shorten the life of the turbo. you really need a 3" turbo back system.

as for gauges, just get a cheap $50 drift one

+1 to the exhaust question.....get a good aftermarket 3" turbo back and then you can run around 12 psi with a nice FMIC.....

Its never a good idea to boost it to 11psi with a stock as a rock setup mate.....installing a aftermarket exhaust and intercooler will let the boost creep up a bit anyway...from 7psi (stock) to about 9psi (ish)....i used my mates gauge (that read in PSI) to set it up and after about a week of not noticing any spikes i took it off and never had a problem...but in saying that get an EBC if you can

Edited by Krishy

hey mateee...

i was in the same position as you abotu a 2 years ago.. i started of with a3 inch turbo back exhaust.. that s very imporant to hav when boosting ur turbo, as it will definately help the turbo boost to 11psi. and ul also need a fmic. onyl thing is once u boost the car, u myt find ur car runnign rather sluggish.. i rememeber with my car, it kept jerking because the boost kept cutting out, due to the factory computer. and eventally the computer will reset.. sometimes my car woudl stall and turn off while i was driving. so becareful before u boost ur car.. ask ur mechanic about what i said b4 u boost it.. the onyl i fixed that probelm was i bought a greddy e-manage.. and tuned on the dyno n havent had a problem since. besides epa lol

far out forgot to say i yeah i got a 3 inch exhaust catback.. he said its ceramic.. and that it'll break if i boost it too much..he sed it can't handle more boost.. so i was wondering what would happen if i do boost it and leave the current exhaust? also my mufflers kicked in a bit. does this ruin performance? lol. Thanks for the replies

Edited by richar
far out forgot to say i yeah i got a 3 inch exhaust catback.. he said its ceramic.. and that it'll break if i boost it too much..he sed it can't handle more boost.. so i was wondering what would happen if i do boost it and leave the current exhaust? also my mufflers kicked in a bit. does this ruin performance? lol. Thanks for the replies

get a 3" cat and a dump/front pipe as well. no point have a 3" exhaust if the first 1m of exhaust is still the tiny stock one.

i would also suggest a fmic for running the higher boost. it isn't so bad in winter, but come summer you want it because it will make a big difference to inlet temps if you drive it a bit hard. the stock cooler suffers from heat soak pretty quick.

far out forgot to say i yeah i got a 3 inch exhaust catback.. he said its ceramic.. and that it'll break if i boost it too much..he sed it can't handle more boost.. so i was wondering what would happen if i do boost it and leave the current exhaust? also my mufflers kicked in a bit. does this ruin performance? lol. Thanks for the replies
if you boost it to much you will do this to your turbo....with the stock turbo i have been told 10psi is good but it safe up to 12psi

Get a dump/front pipe as well mate....just a cat back isnt really good enough when increasing boost....my mate has a R33 S2 and i have a S1....we had both on the dyno and running same boost i made a bit more power then him as he just had a catback.....Dents along the exhaust piping can make a bit of a difference but wont be getting worried about that just yet.....

You can boost the stock turbo up to 14psi but to be safe and if you want a longer lasting turbo run it at 12psi....I have been running 12psi for about a year now and its going strong....had it up to 14psi for a long time but thats before it got all tuned up and shit...on 14psi the boost was dying towards the end of my dyno graph but on 12psi it holds it strongly all throughout....

yeah i also ran 14/15psi for about a year without any issues. but you need an aftermarket ecu to go above about 12psi. and depending on how you drive, you might not want it that high anyway. especially if you want decent fuel economy. the higher boost you go, the worse your fuel economy gets

yeah. im keeping it at 11psi.. just to be ont he safe side.. what im worried about is my Ceramic exhaust, MY Mechanic is saying that i need a new 3 inch catback because my current ones really thin and if i boost my turbo to 11psi it will just break the exhaust? Whats your opinoion guys, thanks for the replies

he would be talking about the ceramic exhaust wheel on the turbo, which tend to fail when run at higher boost levels (although plenty have also failed at lower boost, so go figure). i have never heard of a ceramic exhaust. i have heard of ceramic coated exhaust though, and that is nothing to worry about running high boost through.

yeah. im keeping it at 11psi.. just to be ont he safe side.. what im worried about is my Ceramic exhaust, MY Mechanic is saying that i need a new 3 inch catback because my current ones really thin and if i boost my turbo to 11psi it will just break the exhaust? Whats your opinoion guys, thanks for the replies

11 or 12 psi is no problems if you have the supporting mods for it. By supporting mods i mean turbo back exhaust, FMIC, coilpacks if possible and that should be no issues there...Cat back doesnt really help as its only flowing higher from cat back, but before the cat is where the action is so to speak.

No need for coil packs unless the standard ones are shot, plently of people have made 500+hp with the standard coils,

IMO dump/front pipes do stuff all with a standard turbo and ive got back to back time sheets to prove it

i think he meant my catback was too thin, and if i boost my turbo .. my 3"catback won't be able to handle it and it'll break my exhaust.. lets say if it does break.. would it just be my exhaust? or will it damage other parts aswell.. cos what im thinking is i may aswell keep my exhaust til it does break (if it does) rather than buying a new one.. and i dont have a fmic.. do you guys think i need it for 11psi?

maybe you misunderstood him and he was saying your exhaust turbine is ceramic and if you boost it too much you may break it.... which makes sense.

because i don't think you have a ceramic exhaust and i don't think its too thin... unless you made it with coke cans :D

Really why run the risk with the turbo? it's not like you will ever get good performance out of the stocker without modifying it... Leave it stock to minimize the chance of turbine failure. If you want performance get it high flowed or a new turbo.

your exhaust shouldn't break from extra boost, unless maybe it is made out of a wet paper bag.

i would ask him what exactly he meant by your exhaust being too thin.

and while turbo back exhausts might not add much to how fast you run over the 1/4, they do help as far as turbo life goes. having a larger pipe allows the hot exhaust gases to move away from the turbo quicker, thus reducing the chances of turbo failure

No need for coil packs unless the standard ones are shot, plently of people have made 500+hp with the standard coils,

IMO dump/front pipes do stuff all with a standard turbo and ive got back to back time sheets to prove it

I beg to differ

Me and my mate ran our 33's on the same dyno like 15 mins apart on there was a difference between mine and his and we have exactly the same mods except i have a full zorst and he had a 3" cat back....the difference was i made 180rwkw on 7psi and he made 173.5 on 7psi.....

Now that can be put to a few factors/variables ie motor life and how fresh it is etc etc...but i certainly felt a difference when i had my exhaust put on.....it sounds better at the same time flows a lot better too

7kw can easily be put down to motor variables, but could also be the front pipe as well. i didn't really notice any gain from putting mine on, but then i only put the dump pipe on there. the front pipe had been on there since before i bought the car (had a 3" front pipe and the rest of the exhaust was stock, LOL). it certainly isn't a "OMG that is so much more powerful" kind of mod.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...