Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gcg sell something like your suggesting, can be seen on the uas website in the turbo section!!! that would give you an idea then get someone to build it or maybe gcg will exchange yours for one etc...

link to page

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...list_turbos.htm

I actually had the turbosmart ultra gate welded onto my exhaust housing. do a search in this thread for "trust td06 stage 1" and that should bring up a link with some photo's of how it was done, if you cant find them PM me and I will email them to you. This way it can be bolted onto the stock manifold without too much modification, from a flow point of view though you want to get rid of the stock exhaust manifold as its flow is shite.

ive seen that, where an external gate is welded onto the exaust housing.

my only question would be - does it seriously effect the exaust flow?

it makes alot of sense for the flow to follow that snail shape and push the turbine around, but would changing the direction anywhere in that housing reduce flow properties?

just a question out of curiosity

paul is it easy to weld?

a bloke i know told me it couldnt be welded to the manifold cos its cast.... but a turbo yeah?

also who could do it? any good turbo place like AVO or somethin over here in the eastern states? also how much has the guy over there charged to do this (i forget his name now but i read it in ur post from a while ago)

Here is a pic of what i did to mine. I did all the machining work myself then had the block welded to the stcok manifold, this cost over $200 to be done as it needs to be heated then welded then cooled slowly, then it needs to be faces as the manifold distorts because of the heat. If you got someone to do the job for you it would be over 400.

Welding the gate to the housing is ok, but does not work as well, either does modding the stock manifold, i would just get it done propely with a new manifold or buy a diff turbo.

Sorry Clint32, but a wastegate can be too big, they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes. Then the boost climbs and they open again. Then they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes again. This cycling causes surging as the boost moves around and also wears out the wastegate.

Get the right size is my recommendation.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Sorry Clint32, but a wastegate can be too big, they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes.  Then the boost climbs and they open again.  Then they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes again.  This cycling causes surging as the boost moves around and also wears out the wastegate.

Get the right size is my recommendation.

Cool thought something like that would be the case..

What size for a T04E as Kamikaze said? ;)

Originally posted by Clint32

Here is a pic of what i did to mine.  I did all the machining work myself then had the block welded to the stcok manifold, this cost over $200 to be done as it needs to be heated then welded then cooled slowly, then it needs to be faces as the manifold distorts because of the heat.  If you got someone to do the job for you it would be over 400.  

Welding the gate to the housing is ok, but does not work as well, either does modding the stock manifold, i would just get it done propely with a new manifold or buy a diff turbo.

dude that manifold must flow shit coz each runner is a different size?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...