Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ro...17-t281172.html

those don't look too bad, 1600 delivered isn't awesome though

BUT, just found out they're made in the Philippines

Edited by ActionDan
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you get what u pay for, don't u think if there was a decent brand that only cost a bit over $1k in aus everyone would buy them?

cheap wheels are cheap because they were made cheaply, if you want a decent wheel ull either have to spend more $$ or go 2nd hand. plenty of quality wheels around in the 1.2k mark.

have a look around at your local importer. Most of them get in some decent rims to fill out containers.

I got my last set of 17x9 sterns from otomoto for $550 or there abouts. they're a bit rough and not super light but for a track rim they do the job and have handled heaps of abuse.

Prior to that i got some desmonds (not great but again a decent brand) from importbitz for around the 600 mark, and i know my old white ssr indy 500's originally came through importbitz as well though i bought them off a mate. They were around the 700 mark.

Unfortunately 4 stud makes it a bit harder to find good offset wheels.

Start trawling the NS for sale section i suppose.

Thanks guys, see what I can turn up. I'm onto some Volks for around the 700 mark at the moment, see how we go.

I'm keen as but we'll see what happens, maybe it's third time lucky. Yep that's right, this will be the third attempt.... First set where advertised as 114.3s and were 100s, the second set were advertised as 8" all round and when I got there (3hrs each way to melb) the fronts were 7" wide... despite me confirming details and getting pics etc.

Fingers crossed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...