Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ds-t280020.html

Which product to buy, and where from?

APEXI AVC-R

Turbosmart E-Boost

Both need rpm inputs, and I've been advised that both of these do.

Cheers.

Id use the E-boost if i had to choose between those two...if i had any choice id use a Blitz ID-III...the best on the market.

While I'm at it. How do these puppies work? They must measure and control boost. How does it measure the boost? How does it control the boost? I think the later is via solenoid? If I have a twin turb set up I assume I'll need 2 solenoids.

Someone care to explain in relatively simple terms how these jiggers work and how it all hangs together and where the electrical and mechanical interfaces are.

Thanks.

I use a profec B Spec II and never had a problem with it and have known a lot of people to use it as well.....ummm not sure about getting 2 solenoids etc for a twin turbo setup....that question might be answered by your tuner

you don't need 2 solenoids. and you don't need RPM based mapping either. and not having RPM mapping DOES NOT make it the same as the crap bleed valve currently in use.

they measure boost using a MAP sensor. all the kits will come with their own sensor. a good place to get the signal for it is T into the line going to the factory map sensor (small black box mounted on firewall).

the control boost using a solenoid and a computer. the computer gets input from the map sensor and gives it's output to the solenoid. they are better than a bleed valve as being "smart" you can program it to stay completely shut (thus allowing fast spool up) until quite close to your target boost before it starts to allow the wastegate flaps to open, then once open it keeps checking the map sensor input to ensure it can hold the boost at the level you want. so you can tune out the taper off problem you have now.

and do not buy the power FC boost control kit. they are pretty crap.

you don't need 2 solenoids. and you don't need RPM based mapping either. and not having RPM mapping DOES NOT make it the same as the crap bleed valve currently in use.

they measure boost using a MAP sensor. all the kits will come with their own sensor. a good place to get the signal for it is T into the line going to the factory map sensor (small black box mounted on firewall).

the control boost using a solenoid and a computer. the computer gets input from the map sensor and gives it's output to the solenoid. they are better than a bleed valve as being "smart" you can program it to stay completely shut (thus allowing fast spool up) until quite close to your target boost before it starts to allow the wastegate flaps to open, then once open it keeps checking the map sensor input to ensure it can hold the boost at the level you want. so you can tune out the taper off problem you have now.

and do not buy the power FC boost control kit. they are pretty crap.

Richard, where would you place your money?

HKS EVC V or Blitz SBC ID spec R or Bliz SBC I colour Spec R are the two top range ones. (don't confuse the two blitz ones as they each have a spec S version too which has a lesser solenoid, get the Spec R). the blitz dual SBC is good too, but old now and looks very dated, and costs nearly as much as the two newer ones (ID and i colour). all 3 have the same solenoid as long as you go for the spec R.

for best bang for buck though I like trust profec B II. easy to set-up and when tuned properly will hold boost very nicely. it's also small, and it will briefly display peak boost after every acceleration run, it also has overboost warning, and boost limiter (ie if car starts to overboost it can drop boost down to a set amount, tbh though limiter is not that useful as if car is overboosting something is wrong with the boost control!).

you definitely don't need 2 solenoids, how it works on a GTR is you simply T together the two pressure signals going to the wastegate actuators. it;s the same way it's controlled in the factory set-up. :D a dual solenoid (1 solenoid unit but with 2 seperate circuits/valves) is a good thing though.

I have personally used all the ones mentioned above and they all do a good job. for mild to mid serious GTRs (ie around 350rwkw or less) I am very happy with the profec B II. for a full on serious car or if you just want the best then the HKS EVC V or the blitz SBC ID type R or i colour type R are the way to go.

getting one for rpm based mapping is really not necessary unless you actually wanted to DELAY boost spool up. and that's just silly! if you need less boost at any given moment, use less throttle. the Apexi AVC-R is over 10 years old now. the HKS and blitz ones I recommended are both only a few years old and have evolved from their older designs.

the bad news is, the SBC ID R is about $700 the (very) old school dual SBC is about $600, the i colour spec R is about $1000 (but I believe it does have boost/RPM mapping which would make the tuner happy, and it has LOTS of functions). The HKS EVC V has RPM map too if needed, it's about $800.

The trust profec B II is about $450, so it's a good $250 jump to the SBC ID, and about double to the rest. the old school SBC type R is guess is good value as it has dual solenoid and is only about $150 more than the profec B II, but I find the profec B II holds boost well enough, and looks quite nice, and once you get to $600 for the SBC R, you may as well spend the extra $100 for the SBC ID which is much newer, now you're at $700 abd you think, well the HKS is only another $100. now you're at $800 and you think, well the top of the line i colour is only another $200. all of a sudden you are double the price of the profec!

so where would I put my money? It would be between these 3:

profec B II

HKS EVC V (as it's new, just released less than 12 months ago)

Blitz I-colour type R (same as above).

HKS EVC V or Blitz SBC ID spec R or Bliz SBC I colour Spec R are the two top range ones. (don't confuse the two blitz ones as they each have a spec S version too which has a lesser solenoid, get the Spec R). the blitz dual SBC is good too, but old now and looks very dated, and costs nearly as much as the two newer ones (ID and i colour). all 3 have the same solenoid as long as you go for the spec R.

for best bang for buck though I like trust profec B II. easy to set-up and when tuned properly will hold boost very nicely. it's also small, and it will briefly display peak boost after every acceleration run, it also has overboost warning, and boost limiter (ie if car starts to overboost it can drop boost down to a set amount, tbh though limiter is not that useful as if car is overboosting something is wrong with the boost control!).

you definitely don't need 2 solenoids, how it works on a GTR is you simply T together the two pressure signals going to the wastegate actuators. it;s the same way it's controlled in the factory set-up. ;) a dual solenoid (1 solenoid unit but with 2 seperate circuits/valves) is a good thing though.

I have personally used all the ones mentioned above and they all do a good job. for mild to mid serious GTRs (ie around 350rwkw or less) I am very happy with the profec B II. for a full on serious car or if you just want the best then the HKS EVC V or the blitz SBC ID type R or i colour type R are the way to go.

getting one for rpm based mapping is really not necessary unless you actually wanted to DELAY boost spool up. and that's just silly! if you need less boost at any given moment, use less throttle. the Apexi AVC-R is over 10 years old now. the HKS and blitz ones I recommended are both only a few years old and have evolved from their older designs.

the bad news is, the SBC ID R is about $700 the (very) old school dual SBC is about $600, the i colour spec R is about $1000 (but I believe it does have boost/RPM mapping which would make the tuner happy, and it has LOTS of functions). The HKS EVC V has RPM map too if needed, it's about $800.

The trust profec B II is about $450, so it's a good $250 jump to the SBC ID, and about double to the rest. the old school SBC type R is guess is good value as it has dual solenoid and is only about $150 more than the profec B II, but I find the profec B II holds boost well enough, and looks quite nice, and once you get to $600 for the SBC R, you may as well spend the extra $100 for the SBC ID which is much newer, now you're at $700 abd you think, well the HKS is only another $100. now you're at $800 and you think, well the top of the line i colour is only another $200. all of a sudden you are double the price of the profec!

so where would I put my money? It would be between these 3:

profec B II

HKS EVC V (as it's new, just released less than 12 months ago)

Blitz I-colour type R (same as above).

Strewth! I think I owe you a beer for that post :devil: Much appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...