Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing R32 Clutch Assembly

DRIF10
 Share

Recommended Posts

DRIF10 Contributor

DRIF10

Posted
Posted

hey peeps

ive done a search and cant really find anything that relates

if anyone has a link to a related topic that wuld be awesome

a common thing.... the weld on the bracket has shat itself.. now im gonna pull it out n reweld the f**ker just wondering if there is anything that i need to no before i go ripping it apart?

drain hydrolics? does anyone no if the brackets r bolted into the firewall or are they riveted?

any help would be great!

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280305-removing-r32-clutch-assembly/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It's all bolted together.

Remove the split pin holding the pushrod to the pedal, then remove the pivot pin. Unbolt the master cylinder (in the engine bay, no need to disconnect hydraulics), there's a nut inside, up behind the instrument cluster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • jtha7
      New r33 owner

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...