Jump to content
SAU Community

Putting Front Strut Back On R33?

mosquitocoils
 Share

Recommended Posts

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, just need some quick help, I've removed my front left gas strut + spring as the strut needed replacing. I've taken my lowered spring off the old strut, put it on the new one, and now I can't get the whole thing back into the car.... the lug is just way too high up to fit the strut eyelut on to.

I've had heaps of weight on it to try and push it down, put the wheel back on and stood on it, had someone else stand on it with all their weight while I tried to get it in etc etc, and I just can't for the lift of me figure out how to slide it on.

$100 an hour for a mobile mechanic to come out is just too much...

Any tips?? Like is there something else I can undo or loosen to make it easier to push the wheel hub down?

post-58284-1248485384_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280611-putting-front-strut-back-on-r33/
Share on other sites
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Andrew, I've tried that a bunch of times but it just won't push down far enough... and I have really strong legs hahaha. I even stood on it with both feet. Hmmm I have a mate coming over soon so I'll try it again with more force hahaha

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Would it help if I took both front wheels off the ground?

They're not at the moment.

How would that help?

The load is on the other wheel, and the sway bar is holding this side up.

Trust me, seen it before - so jack the whole front up.

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Blind Elk, thanks very much mate I do appreciate it.

Eric, I owe you a carton! I thought about doing that before I came and posted on here, but let it go because I thought it could be really unsafe and spring out at me/damage the car in doing so. But after hearing it from someone else I thought bugger it, ended up sticking my little scissor jack in above the wishbone and the engine bay and spread it open so that the lug dropped down enough.

Just took it for a short test, feels so much better - my last strut was on it's way and would bottom out on some of the corners around here. Now it's basically perfect hahaha.

Relaxing time now :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...