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Full Flow Oil System, Drilled Pump, Plugged Block. Anyone Done This?

GTRNUR

By GTRNUR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

Im very close to finalising the last of my machining for my new engine and have an oil system question. I have built quite a few high performance VW engines and one of the things we do with the oil systems is to use an oil pump that doesnt return oil to the crankcase. Instead it pumps the oil to an external fitting where its routed via a remote filter and cooler. They call this a full flow oil system.

So, ive heard of RB26's that use a deep sump extension with an external oil pickup. The approach would be to dril and plug the engine block's oil pickup gallery and then drill and install a fitting in the pump to allow a connection for the line that comes from the sump. I think this was done on the bathurst GTR's.

Has anyone tried doing anything like this with the output side of the pumps and then returning oil directly to the block? The advantage would be that you dont have to use one of those remote adapter attachments, and the oil hoses would be a bit shorter.

Cheers,

Ian

Edited by GTRNUR
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nothing even close to a dry sump set-up.

Done plenty of the pick up sides but never done it with the pressure side.

I cant see any reason why it wont work the only advantage is like you say slightly shorter oil lines for the cooler and no need for a filter mount on the block.

Its alot of friggin around when the original gallery works fine and filter mounts are not that hard to use.

On a race car I could see some small benifit in making things simpler but for general use I cant see the point.

Edited by Risking
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

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  • Author
Posted

Well it seems I may not need to do this anyway now.

The oil filter block I have sourced had a large metal cylinder with to hose connections on it. If im not mistaken this is the oil cooler attachment with the built in oil thermostat thats used on the N1 GTR's right?

While drilling and plugging galleries might seem like a pain in the ass, ive actualy had that done to all the galeries anyway so I can clean out the block properly. The block has had a lot of metal shaved out of it and I dont want any of that in the oil system.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Yes thats the OEM oil cooler.

Your better off pissing it all off and screwing an oil filter thread straight into the block and doint it RB30 style with the oil filter mounting plate straight to the block.

We dont run those OEM coolers with aftermarket cores as well.

Found they allow way to much oil temp variations depending on heat soak in the cooling system etc.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is a steel sleeve in the block that normally has an o-ring seal onto the inside of the filter mount.

How do you screw the filter straight onto the block, or do you mean use the filter mount and just dont connect the coolant lines to the oil cooler side of the mount?

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I thought of doing that while my motor was out, sounds like a good idea.

You could always get a plate made up with dash fittings for the oil cooler that bolts up to where the standard one does, like a lot of SR20 guys do

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

You need a double threaded fitting to replace the one with the push over o ring setup which allows the use of the oil cooler block.

Rb30 has this double threaded fitting...

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You need a double threaded fitting to replace the one with the push over o ring setup which allows the use of the oil cooler block.

Rb30 has this double threaded fitting...

Ah... so that fitting in the block is threadded in and not pressed in then. That makes more sense.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt even bother trying to source the adapters new, i tried that and instead raided the rb30 collection (different thread size each end). To get them off the block just go buy 2 half sized nuts and do the old double nut lock trick.

Pic show what i did: Got the sandwich plate from mscn http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=354 part number TD1014B

post-20917-1248869146_thumb.jpg

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah getting rid of the standard oil/coolant heat exchanger is a good idea. people do it all the time with SR20. tomei make one as do saurus for SR20. (pics below) you could get something made for RB26 easily enough, there would be a market for it for sure.

nengun-1482-00-tomei-n2_oil_block.jpg

02_parts_oilcooler_sr_kiri.jpg

P9150012.jpg

obviously the GTR one would look very different but you get the idea. :pirate:

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