Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Stop Licence Plate Theft

Phatboy

By Phatboy,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

nizmo da gizmo Collaborator

nizmo da gizmo

Posted
Posted
How do you remove them? There must be a special tool?

I'd rather get them from Vic Police rather than interstate on eBay as I can be certain the removal tool will be available.

Go to bunnings , they sell them in the builders department. I know because i work there lolz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281179-how-to-stop-licence-plate-theft/
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Vic Police had a stand at the Melbourne F1 this year for the one way screws. You just had to tell them what car you had and they looked it up in their book and gave you the best screws to use.

I haven't even looked at them yet because I was going to wait to order personalised plates before using them.

Maybe you can still pick them up from police? :\

pretty sure most cop shops will hook you up

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys, my mate just bought some personalised plates, but as he doesn't have a garage, has to park his car outside. I am also looking into getting custom plates.

I had a bad experience 2 years ago with people stealing my plates outside and then, I guess, using it for petrol station theft (this was in the bad old days of $1.60/L prices). It wasn't customised, so I ordered new standard plates,.

If it was personalise plates, could you re-order the same ones or would it have to be a different combo? I would be gutted if I lost my combo. I was looking around at ways to deter licence plate theft and I stumbled on this:

http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...ArticleID=57071

I totally didn't know about this when it was on. Does anyone know if this service is still available anywhere?

Had a look at eBay without much success. Only listing I could find was this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/8-x-ONE-WAY-NUMBER-...bayphotohosting

I don't understand how they can be one-way screws when they are screwed in with any normal screwdriver, look like normal screws, and apparently don't need a specialised tool to unscrew.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

UnCo Rising Star

UnCo

Posted
Posted

Vic Police had a stand at the Melbourne F1 this year for the one way screws. You just had to tell them what car you had and they looked it up in their book and gave you the best screws to use.

I haven't even looked at them yet because I was going to wait to order personalised plates before using them.

Maybe you can still pick them up from police? :\

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you look at the screws closely the edges that get hit by the screwdriver when undoing are ramped, causing the drive to pop out of the slot.

100px-Screws_-_tamper_resistant_slotted.jpg

How do you remove them? There must be a special tool?

I'd rather get them from Vic Police rather than interstate on eBay as I can be certain the removal tool will be available.

AGE Veteran

AGE

Posted
Posted
Alen keys bolts.

and put a bolt on the otherside, and if you like, lock tight also, and number plate proctectors position right your can get any fingers under there :)

Or one better would be Torx bolts.

2094.jpg

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Alen keys bolts.

and put a bolt on the otherside, and if you like, lock tight also, and number plate proctectors position right your can get any fingers under there :pirate:

Instead of loctite use a lock nut, that way the only way to get it off is a spanner on each side.

Dont know where to get them from but there is a bolt that once it is torqued up to a certain pressure the head snaps off, you either ues a chisel/angle grinder or have to cut a grove in the top to use a screw driver.

Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted
Dont know where to get them from but there is a bolt that once it is torqued up to a certain pressure the head snaps off, you either ues a chisel/angle grinder or have to cut a grove in the top to use a screw driver.

The drive snaps of the nut normally and they just have a flat head, the ones we use at work are called Hi-Locks, Put a big penny washer under the head of the fastner and nut as well, makes it harder to rip off the number plate....

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

use a nail gun and nail it along the border of your number plate.

that's what we have to do in Asia. as soon as we bought our new 1989 toyota corolla se (back in 1989) we took it to a workshop to have one of the guys there to nail gun all badges, YES, those are the toyota logo, the 1.6SE badge at the boot, etc. Put a screw on the grill toyota badge as well.

so they don't go missing.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Maybe I'm missing the obvious, but if you can't get them off, how the f**k do you get your plates off when you want/need to?

When do you want to?

But if your happy to make it easy for someone else to get your plates off because MAYBE one day you MIGHT need to take them off then you'll just have to deal with it when there stolen.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
When do you want to?

But if your happy to make it easy for someone else to get your plates off because MAYBE one day you MIGHT need to take them off then you'll just have to deal with it when there stolen.

Considering this is a website of car enthusiasts...Car shows, DECA, track days and so on.

ANK Enthusiast

ANK

Posted
Posted

screw a metal strip into your bumber or where ever its meant to go make sure you drill holes in it prior to putting it on that match your number plate screw holes then potrivit your number plate to the metal strip if you need to get them off you just use a drill the number plate will cover the screws that are holding the metal stip to your bar :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...