Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As thread title suggests im wondering on the different engines in the s1 stags.... Mines a a '97 RS4 V (well call this car A) A mates (stagharts) has a '98 RS4V Dayz (car B) Both are series ones. Im aware that his is a later model than mine and would have been produced just before the s2's were starting to get pumped out...

Now today after doing some work on his car I've noticed a few things, His CAS is different to mine and he has a nipple on his plenum that I dont have. Is their such thing as a Series 1 RB25DET and a Series 2 RB25DET? If so what are the differences?

When i upped the boost on mine to 12psi with no computer or piggbacks it didnt rich and retard or miss at all. However stagharts car doesnt want to get much over 10psi and feels to be missing or R & Ring at full throttle and full boost. His coils are in OK condition with some evidence of them leaking spark. Will try my splitfires in their soon to see if it removes the jolting/miss feeling on WOT.

Picks of each part im talking about can be found here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...Va-t281219.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281266-sereis-1-stagea-engine-variants/
Share on other sites

its likely to follow the same suit as R33 GTST engine models, there are 3 known variants

series 1 = RB25det came in 1993 to 1995 GTST

series 2 = rb25det came in 1997 ish onwards

series 2.1 or series 3 or something else = came in 1998 R33 GTST

series 2.1 or series 3 or something else is RB25DET with ER34 CAS and some slight ER34 parts, but still R33 RB25DET

series 1 will have green or blue label AFM

series 2 will have pink label AFM

yep as per your pics

car a is series 1 rb25det

car b is series 2.1 or series 3 rb25det

theres 2 tenths of bugger all difference between them

the ECU differences are negligable and not even worth worrying about

the fact your doesnt hit R&R its pure luck, it might be a mangled/remapped/hacked ECU (likely)

the ECU differences are negligable and not even worth worrying about

the fact your doesnt hit R&R its pure luck, it might be a mangled/remapped/hacked ECU (likely)

So you think my car (car a) that doesnt hit the r & r has a hacked ecu?

theres a listed differences thread somewhere

the ECU differeces are bugger all, not even worth finding out what they are

the stock ecu is junk, dont even bother trying, remap, standalone or piggyback it

all stock ecu's r&R when airflow exceed's set levels

its not a fixed setting on boost, its based on airflow

it usually happens when you run around 10-12psi however

thats interesting... Mine never r & r as hard if any when i upped my bost.... And it was a stocker when i got it.....? Would supprise me if the ecu has been hacked to remove the r & r. Im now running a SITC and SAFCII anyway :) Just trying to sort out why his is r & r ing more... Might throw the timing light on his car and check the base timing for shits....

noooo paul....not for stageas. there are at least 3 ECUs in w34 series 1 stagea and they are very different in mapping / sensitivity to extra boost. And they all have different wiring looms. All use the S2 R33 GTST style motor with ignitors on the coil packs. Series 2 W34 is different again and may be the same as r34 gtt (not 100% sure though)

have a look for my thread re this in the stagea section.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...