Jump to content
SAU Community

What Do You Guyz Think Of Downunder Auto?

SL33K

By SL33K,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

dan_the_man Grand Master

dan_the_man

Posted
Posted

Please keep this rule in mind before posting:

Defamatory remarks made towards businesses or individuals will not be tolerated on this website - We understand that if you have had a bad experience with a business you want to warn other people of said experience. Unfortunately, the same publicly expressed opinion could be viewed as libelous and/or constitute an attempt to deter business from any individual or business. Australian law holds the site owner partly responsible for any defamatory remarks posted on said website, and that is unacceptable. Informing people via PM's is tolerated as it is not a public message. With this said, feel free to post any information about a business or individual that you have had good dealings with.

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
Posted

My brother brought his 1989 CA18DET 180SX from them in 2002. When he brought it, it was automatic 100% stock and had 44,000KMS on the clock....absolutely immaculate condition.

He never experienced any difficulties with them after purchasing the car, however that was 7years ago, so i can't really comment on what they are like now (i'm not saying they are bad)....

Ehgriez Mentor

Ehgriez

Posted
Posted

Alot of there cars have low kms but from what I've seen on the interior it doesnt seem too far off. The owner also believes they are genuine. If you take a look at a couple of the 32's they recently got in they are in ALOT better condition than my car. Just paint work, carpet and places that generally wear.

MLCrisis Proficient

MLCrisis

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I bought my first Skyline from them in Jan 2003. I reckon I got a good deal and they serviced the car for me for the next two years. Overall I was happy with it. The kilometres were low. See pm.

With any import dealer, or even private seller, if they have bought the car through the Japanese auctions, which is 90% certain, then ask them for the auction sheet, which will give the vehicle number (which you can check against the plate in the engine bay) and the kilometres at time of auction. These should be reliable.

Now I would not buy an import without seeing the auction sheet and any service record since coming to Australia. If they won't show you the auction sheet, or a service record and log books from Japan, I would not buy it. You may choose to go ahead, knowing the kilometres have no provenance, but you inevitably take a risk doing so, especially when it comes to the !00,000 km service, when you need to change the timing belt. Maybe just change the timing belt when you buy the car and ignore the kilometres.

Cheers. :)

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted (edited)

+1 for what MLCrisis said above, read through the documents before you believe "40'000KMS - super low KMS!!". They write words in Jap but usually numbers are in English, so you can identify KMs, '100'000km' service tags, etc

On Friday I was driving through Maddington/Kenwick and for the first time noticed a particular yard hard a shitload of Skylines...like, all I could see out the front was Skylines.

Didnt catch a name or number, but its where Albany Highway / Kelvin Road (Had a look on Google Street/Maps, can't see anything, but it was definately there), it was on the same side, and around about where that Yank dealer is with all the Corvette's n shit. Somewhere around 1800-1900.

Edited by Nic_A31
Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted
On Friday I was driving through Maddington/Kenwick and for the first time noticed a particular yard hard a shitload of Skylines...like, all I could see out the front was Skylines.

Didnt catch a name or number, but its where Albany Highway / Kelvin Road (Had a look on Google Street/Maps, can't see anything, but it was definately there), it was on the same side, and around about where that Yank dealer is with all the Corvette's n shit. Somewhere around 1800-1900.

The yard you are talking about is www.driveawayautos.com.au/ who are at 1878 Albany Highway Maddington, just 2 yards down from Range Ford.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...