Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everytime I press the cigarette lighter in it blows the fuse , does anyone know why this would be so ?

I've checked the wireing as far as I can and it appears good and unmolested.the fuse is 15amp and correct according to the diagram on the fuse box lid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281471-shorting-cigarette-lighter/
Share on other sites

Also check wiring for other stuff. The lighter wire is a good one that everyone picks on for anything that needs accessory power turbo timers, gauges, boost controllers etc

Thanks for that, I've taken out the gearstick surround panel and the stereo/ a/c unit and as far as I can see nothing has been run of the lighter wire or the cable it goes into, the only non stock thing in the car is the alarm and I have no idea how this was set up.

Can the alarm cable be picked up at the fuse box or elsewhere, I'm a dummy when it comes to wireing, if it isn't obvious I realy don't know where to start.

2LV8ETRPosted Yesterday, 05:05 PM Try a different lighter in the socket and see what happens.

The lighter itself may be cactus and is creating a dead short instead of heating the element.

Thanks mate I'll give that a go, I've got an led one that came with a Fast Fours about 10 zillion years ago still in it's packing and kept under the --it'll come in usefull sometime ??

Edited by BASHO
Can the alarm cable be picked up at the fuse box or elsewhere, I'm a dummy when it comes to wireing, if it isn't obvious I realy don't know where to start.

Take everything needed for the alarm from the ignition wiring harness under the steering column.

Everything you'll need is there and it's only a short distance to the central locking unit behind the drivers kick panel if you are installing CL.

Thanks guys ,

sorted , I renewed the fuse-again- and tried a plug in 12v vac I had lying around and it worked fine so socket wasn'tfaulty, so on to the Hot 4's freeby, which actualy didn't fit the socket, so I stripped the guts out of it and put them in the old one and it worked fine, I couldn't resist the flashing LEDS and chrome golf ball looking push thingo so I put that on for good measure , now the car feels much faster, he he.

Then I realised I'd given up smoking 3 years ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...