Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I recently received my highflow turbo back from GCG and have been advised to get a new Oil Feed Line.

In Brief:

1. Where is a good place to get a new Oil Feed Line made?

2. How do I take off my oem Line?

3. What features will I need on the new line, e.g. new banjo etc?

Thanks in advance.

just take the gcg turbo and the old oil line down to pirtek / Enzed etc,

they will be able to make one up for you.

as for taking the old one off, you will need to undo the banjo from the turbo and the block (sits about 6" above the oil drain hose) I think from memory they are a 16mm bolt, and its probably best to undo the one on the block from under the car.

They usually need a good tap with a mallet to break the seal on them, after that its easy ;)

Edit: If you dont havea spare car to get down to pirtek etc, the block fitting is 12mmx1.5, and use either a -4 or -3 stainless braided hose, or you can use "bundy tube" like factory

Did GCG say anything about a restrictor needed for the turbo?

We can supply you one for $80 is required.

Its a half meter long dash 3 SS braided hose with one straight hose tail and a 90 degrees hose tail.

2x speed flow fittings. One in M12x1.25 to engine and the other one depends on the thread that is in the turbo. Factory turbo thread is also in M12x1.25

Factory oil line is held by a hollow screw, Once you remove the screw it comes off. If the high flowed turbo is using sleeve bearings, You will need to get aftermarket oil line or drill out your stock oil line's restriction valve.

.

2x speed flow fittings. One in M12x1.25 to engine and the other one depends on the thread that is in the turbo. Factory turbo thread is also in M12x1.25

Its 12x1.5

and you definatly wont need 50cm.

I have a high mount tubo and line feed line would be lucky to be 30cm long

;)

just take the gcg turbo and the old oil line down to pirtek / Enzed etc,

they will be able to make one up for you.

as for taking the old one off, you will need to undo the banjo from the turbo and the block (sits about 6" above the oil drain hose) I think from memory they are a 16mm bolt, and its probably best to undo the one on the block from under the car.

They usually need a good tap with a mallet to break the seal on them, after that its easy ;)

Edit: If you dont havea spare car to get down to pirtek etc, the block fitting is 12mmx1.5, and use either a -4 or -3 stainless braided hose, or you can use "bundy tube" like factory

Did GCG say anything about a restrictor needed for the turbo?

Ive got another car. So all good.

No the guy at GCG didnt say anything about the highflow needing a restrictor, just to get a new oil feed line made.

Cool, just take the off the oil feed on the car, check to make sure the bolt for the banjo fits in the new turbo, then take the old line and the bolts, down to the shop and they'll make you one up.

Just make sure you get new washers aswell, as the old ones tend to leak.

the stock thread is definitly M12x1.25. Not M12x1.5. Don't get the wrong one.

We currently supply quite a few on weekly bases to high flow customers. The speedflow fitting is better to use compare to benjo bolts, The 50mm line runs between the turbo and chassis.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...