Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

John

for a manual, they can install as switch on the gear stick (hidden under the gear stick cover) which only allows car to start in neutral. Haven't heard of it being illegal or affecting insurance (since it could actually be part of the whole alarm system which insurance stipulates you have to have).

Worst case scenario is that because the switch is so sensitive, it is still tripped when the car is in neutral and you can't remote start your car. Just take it back and they realign it.

4 doorz

the remote start alarm i have has a protection for both manual and auto.

With auto, it only starts in neutral... and for manual, it works where it only works when your car door is shut and the system is armed while the car is still running (turbo timer feautre).. and if it detects the doors are opened, remote start wont work... so if no doors have been opened, it must still be in neutral.. hence a little bit of safety.

cheers guys, yeah the one i have is incorporated into the whole system and has no saftey though the remote does have a button lock feature, i have never left my car in gear from the day i got it (the car not the alarm) so i dont think it will be too much of an issue, im just trying to keep the car as undefectable as possible.

thanks again for the replys.

  • 5 months later...

I went to install a alarm that has remote start and a few places i talked to refused to do it as it had remote start and they all said it was illegal, there was no mention of auto or manual...

I don't actually want remote start but the alarm i have has it as an option.

one of my mates has a remote in his GTi-R (manual of course) and because he has immobilizer, it moves about 0.5cm then shuts off if its in gear...

ive always known it to be illegal in manual cars...but i spose if it starts in neutral only, it should be ok

Yes. It's one of those laws that looks good on paper but doesn't really work that well in real life. It also leaves the door open for cops who really want to book you for something. A bit like the "unneccessary show of speed" law - it's something to fall back on when there's nothing else they can legitimately do you for, and because it's very subjective, it's hard to argue against.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...