Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Lock Bar Installation


agentx
 Share

Recommended Posts

While we have a thread open and I can't be f**ked searching, which is the best (not necessarily the most expensive) lock kit to get?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While we have a thread open and I can't be f**ked searching, which is the best (not necessarily the most expensive) lock kit to get?

I got mine from "New Parts" Section on Nissansilvia ages ago. from QLD seller. was $99, had all the parts easy to install. nice strong bar. wasnt a cheap hollow feeling.

som1 would know this.. my when i pulled out my Hicas system out i realised on the inside part where the tie rods connect to the hicas bar that my stock unit was Welded together.. would this be a method of stopping hicas? all related pipes and such were already removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's why I want to lock the HICAS. I've heard it's fairly unpredictable at certain speeds and I'd like to be able to control my oversteer without another variable in the already large equation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's why I want to lock the HICAS. I've heard it's fairly unpredictable at certain speeds and I'd like to be able to control my oversteer without another variable in the already large equation.

I hear people say that all the time. I bet 95% of the people who say it have read it, but never experienced it. When Hicas does its thing, 99% of the time you don't feel it. If you're pushing hard and you do feel it, just go with the flow, it's certainly not un-predictable if you understand what it is going to do..

Why remove all that tech and development in hopes that a solid bar will do a better job, especially if has never been a problem for you. Don't remove it just because you read something on a forum somewhere, some clever little Japanese men put a lot of thought and money into designing a system that does some really clever things to improve handling and driveability. If a solid bar was better, Nissan would have installed it in the factory...

Unless you're trying to reduce the weight in the car, and you never plan to drive around corners (eg drag car), or you plan to do loads of drifting, save yourself the $$ and learn to enjoy the hicas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hicas wont effect the avg daily driver, wont even notice it. but for track it just adds to things you have to be aware of and expect.

this pic might help ppl who dont get how hicas works

post-62461-1249514692_thumb.png

Edited by GT-R 32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem is, this is a computer controlled thing...and it's not constant...being dependant on speed and your angle of steering. Judging by the pic above it's just an unnecessary variable thrown into the equation. I don't want to get used to controlling it, as for the most part of track driving I can only see it being detrimental. I can appreciate the technology that went into it, but just like traction control and ESC, no thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See I actually liked Honda's four wheel steer (atleast the one in the 2nd Gen preludes). It only operated at low speed so it made the things a dream to park (had to be careful of front wheel drive oversteer when booting through round-a-bouts) and didn't affect handling at higher speed.

That's what I thought HICAS was going to be like before I bought the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd say post the dyno sheet so people can look on it, but you already know all dynos are different. I mean 26psi on Petrol/Gasoline seems pretty up there, and if you aren't revving it out then unless your torque is really nosing over, then of course more RPM will equal more HP. If you think E85 will make the difference between 533whp and 600whp the answer is absolutely yes. Given the only thing that makes power is the turbo, and you've got plenty of boost in there, it all seems semi reasonable to me. Curious to see what other people say though. The one thing that never lies is MPH at the drag strip. See what you trap. (ok, it can lie a bit with altitude and conditions etc)
    • Hello again, I have a 1991 r32 gtr that I’ve modified and dynod. The power it gave me was a bit disappointing with 533 wheel horsepower and 444nm torque on a dyno jet dyno. On a heavier dyno it would read to about 433 wheel horsepower. I say disappointing because it currently has : CP oversized 87mm pistons Eagle H beam rods Extended crank with the nitto collar  stock oil pump (nitto on the way) stock sump (leask sump on the way) Garret G35-900 single turbo  ^ With 26psi of boost (1.6 bar) 6boost v band manifold  turbosmart 60mm external wastegate Brian crower 264 cams tomei gaskets all around arp head studs  dual wallbro fuel pumps dw 1050cc injectors greddy radiator metal Intercooler pipes nismo thermostat  offbrand fuel regulator (tomei regulator on the way) ngk 7’s spark plugs (tuner refused to tune with 8’s for my car) Running on a motec m800  I know that running on e85 and opening the rpm to around 8500 instead of my current 7200 will also boost my power yet will it increase a lot or just slight because people like cardoGTR and andrew Hawkin from motive were all running around 600 wheel horsepower on the same setup as mine. Any feedback on what I’m missing?   thanks
    • At the moment still 8mm. 
    • I see what you mean !! 👍 so I drive with E85 AND E100 my cylinder head and full supertech with 270° camshaft and 10.25 lift this weekend I spoke with my mapper and he told me 10 ratio would be even better so I went to set up a setup with : 3.2l crankshaft from expensive spool import with a stroke of 91mm Nitto or IRP connecting rods length 152.5 mm and piston irp ratio of 10 after having the information near spool import the setup did not work because of the crankshaft which is 91 mm  therefore the assembly mounted in the engine block will come out 1mm high above the cylinder head gasket surface so I have to review the construction of the lower engine low IRP is Italian I am French I wanted to limit the costs because as they are in Europe I do not have customs fees to pay 🤷‍♀️
    • Update. Returned yesterday after a two-day venture driving it from Toowoomba, QLD to VIC.  Some bigger shots. However, this was a couple of hours into the rive at a driver reviver stop so you'll need to excuse the bugs across the front and the water from the storm we just escaped.  Looks like at some points both side windows had wind guards and were removed but left behind some kind of silicone or something (?). Any tips on how to remove this stuff appreciated. Noticed the handle for the hood release kind of just fell from its position with nothing fixing it in place to the mount. Looks like two bolts go there. Again, any advice is appreciated. The driver's seat is a Recaro seat in a fixed position (not mounted using the rails, which were in the boot). So the trip one was...more painful than necessary. I'm a bigger guy, so the seat belt was basically tight.  It also has a rip in the seat side closest to the drivers door.  Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.   Now I'm trying to navigate getting the roadworthy and registration here in VIC. Hope it will go well but I know the hood release will need to be fixed for sure.  
×
×
  • Create New...