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Series 2 Boost Control Issue

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Im with josh,

Wouldnt use the stock gauge to tune your boost. If you dont want to run a gauge all the time just put one in for a day or two to tune ur boost T then ditch it. Dont just chuck it in and tune it and pull it out check it over the course of a few days or so to ensure your not getting any unhealthy spikes ect... :whistling:

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282031-series-2-boost-control-issue/
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lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

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hey all. so here is my dilema, my stock boost control will turn my boost up to the half way line on the stock guage, but with the turbosmart boost t i can only get it up another 1/4. is this normal??

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

In my opinion the turbosmart boost T is a waste of money. You can acheive the same result for free by simply by-passing the solenoid as per the "ten minute boost increase" method and vary boost by altering the size of the bleed restrictor. I had a needle valve in there for a while before i got my electronic boost controller but you can use welding tips or just redrill the restrictor til you get the level of boost you want. I assume you have the boost T plumbed correctly but if you want to se if your turbo is boosting you can just pull the hose off the actuator and very carefully accelerate watching your boost level.

You will be impressed by the difference a good electronic boost controller makes: quicker boost build and hold it for longer at your chosen value.

Check your boost guage by running another one at the same time - just run the pipe through the door temporarily. And work out what your stock guage is reading and convert it to bar, the proper measure, or psi rather than "1/4 travel".

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

+1 for ignore the standard gauge . the only use it has is telling you the crud plastic hose that runs to the factory boost gauge sender has split and fallen off. which it will do all the time if you cut it shorter and push it on , untill you put some silicon hose in its place

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

the stock boost guage is in units of x100 mmHg and works perfectly well. look the conversion factor up if you arent comfortable with the units.

but how accurate are your eyes? There are only 4 marked lines between 0 and +7, so there is no way you'll have the accuracy you need to tune a boost controller.

One clue - if you hit +7 you've gone too far and will have no turbo wheel left.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
One clue - if you hit +7 you've gone too far and will have no turbo wheel left.

a bit extreme but you wouldn't be far off with the stock turbo. if its 7 x100 mmHg, it is only 13.5 psi. pritty much at its limit. if you must use the stock gauge as a basic guide try to hit below the +7 mark, 11 psi (5.6 x100 mmHg). i've been running 11-12psi though mine for a while now with out an issue, and a mate with a S2 stagea is running 14psi, hasn't gone yet but i wouldn't be running it that high.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i did use an autometer guage to set it originally, my concern was mainly because i have a manual thus should be a constant 10psi not 6, the boost t turned it as far as 10psi, 11 when its below 10 degrees. has anyone else has issues with the stock boost solenoid not bleeding enough?? i would like to justr do the 10 minute boost thingy but dont completely understand what goes where. one more concern, ive started to notice that at about 5000rpm my car takes off, before that it sounds like the clutch is slipping. am i better off getting a stronger clutch to hold my stock engine?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

When you installed the boost T you should have bypassed the stock boost solenoid, did you? Also I wouldn't use any of the factory vac lines off the stock solenoid as a couple of them have restrictors in the lines.

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